I normally use Standard speed, quite often Silent, sometimes Sport. But what is actually changed in the settings? I suspect that the hotend temperature is raised in Sport. But am really interested in the Silent mode. As I like to start a print and just let it finish sometime in the night/morning.
The thing is, that Silent isn’t really silent. I’m thinking that I need a printing configuration that is really silent. I’m wondering what has the biggest impact on making things quieter. The layers speed, or Acceleration settings? I haven’t tried this yet, but I am wondering if someone else has.
It would be great if I could start a print at (say) 11pm and set the completion time for (say) 8 am and the software sets the appropriate speed required.
Basically everything changes.
Speed, travel, acceleration, PA, look ahead values.
Not sure about the nozzle temps as they don’t seem to change in the machine view.
If you are after your own silent mode try this route:
Use a well working profile and reduce the speeds by let’s say 30%.
Print a thin star shaped model with sharp, not rounded corners.
Listen to the sound during those cornering moves and for the sparse infill.
Wind down the acceleration settings by 20 to 25% and try again - it helps to record a video/audio of those print to directly compare the noise levels.
You want this harsh noise to turn into a soft, almost silent one.
Once you found setting providing good results save the profile.
Compare completion time of this profile and the default profile in the slicer preview for a larger and more complex model.
If there is still plenty of time left before waking up reduce the speeds a bit more, like 40 or even just 30% of the default speed.
The acceleration values should need much change here unless the star test produces much louder cornering sounds than for the straight and infill parts.
The nozzle temp and k-factor should be checked/adjusted once you have a profile that works great for your needs.
For example PLA, at very low speeds can be printed as cold as 165 degrees Celsius without issues.
Really helps with those nasty overhangs…
With a lower nozzle temp the PA values change, so the K-factor needs to be checked and if in doubt corrected to match the best looking line/corner in the calibration print.
Unless you mainly print like this you should keep the speed changes moderate enough so that you won’t have to change the nozzle temp.
Otherwise create a matching filament profile and name it accordingly.
@user_3026326371 Thanks yes, you are exactly right, I was listening to an item printing last night. It’s the high frequency sounds, the corners, and infill that needs some love. Printing curves and straight lines is not an issue, nor are the fans. I already have the printer sitting on a 40x40x4cm paving stone sitting on soft sponge. So the low frequency noise no longer gets into the tabletop. I will try your suggestion. I don’t have a decibel reading mic. But do have one or two decent apps on the phone which can measure frequency and sound levels. I have to say, I was put off for a long time from purchasing the X1C because a friend had an early Bambu machine, and it was really noisy. Bambu has done a great job in with their subsequent noise-cancelling servo tuning. I was thinking, if I make a slower profile, then this will become the new standard speed, so will silent be half that still?, I guess so.
