Silk-PLA printing issues

Hello All,

I am a beginner in 3D printing and just got my first printer, and it was a smooth sailing until I run into some issues. I have bought different type of plastics and decided to try them all out, and everything was alright, until I tried Silk PLA. I have yellow(gold) Silk PLA from creality, and I am printing on Bambu Lab X1 Carbon(0.4 mm nozzle). The print started just fine, but then I noticed that there was a clear sign of stringing happening. That wasn’t the main issue, print started to have bumps on the outer wall. I am not experienced enough to change settings myself, and don’t really want to mess them up :confused:

If any of you do know how to solve this issue and can help or explain to me how to fix it, I would really appreciate it! Explanation on stringing would be good as well, and definitely will be handy to learn! Thank you all in advance!

Kind regards to you all.

while I have not done so myself I suspect you will have to run some tests/calibrations to find what settings work for that filament. You may want to figure this out if you will be trying many different filaments. Best I can suggest would be orca slicer from what others have said regarding it’s capability to do this. Again, no experience there myself so maybe others will help guide you if needed.

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Whilst PLA is not as hygroscopic as other materials, the bumps may be caused by damp PLA. Check out Filament Drying Recommendations | Bambu Lab Wiki to determine if drying the filament may solve this.

Flow Rate Calibration | Bambu Lab Wiki is also worth reading (see the point about “zits”)

Also check the Creality Silk PLA specs on the box/website and confirm that the temperatures for this material have to be changed slightly from Generic PLA settings.

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Thank you very much! I will definitely give it a thorough read.

I was running into a lot of those similar looking defects using PLA (not silk) as well as having adhesion issues despite using glue sticks. I did a lot of reading and discovered most things pointed to the filament having moisture in it. Of course I also agree with doing some smaller scale test prints to fine tune the settings as well.

I printed desiccant trays for the integrated holders in the AMS and also the three that go between the filament feeders, including the one that holds a hydrometer. I now leave the filament in the AMS overnight to dry it out completely and the results are dramatically better!

Dry Pods with Hydrometer + AMS desiccant trays for Bambu Lab AMS by Longracks Labs
https://www.printables.com/model/635891-dry-pods-with-hydrometer-ams-desicant-trays-for-ba

Hydrometers

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If you use the Dry Pods in the AMS, I suggest you leave the one with the meter empty–Don’t put the silica gel beads in that one. If you do, the meter will read the humidity of the beads and not the interior of the AMS. It will always read 10% which is the minimum for those meters. Don’t ask how I know. :roll_eyes:

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I would never think of that! Thank you.
I am using the original Bambu lab silica pouches, and the AMS reads everything correctly. I am also keeping all of my filament in the container where at the bottom it is filled with silica beads. The container is 60x60x80 cm, and I put 5cm layer of silica beads.(there are only 7 filament rolls there at the moment) I would assume that my filament is dry, however I had my doubts. I did manage to run the drying fitment program on my X1C, and after, I have printed with the gold filament again, and it did not change the result, it turned out to be exactly the same.

Thanks for the tip on the pod with the meter! I did notice it reading 10%! I’ll remove the silica from that pod, with the other two and the trays full it’s still much more than just the packets.

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