Now I have tried the 3 profiles from Siraya Tech.
As you said when foaming to its maximum there is not much that keeps it together between layers. But with 4 walls and 10% gyroid infill it got quit ok.
70A and 75A is ok as is except for my tuning.
If you don’t need that precision or don’t care I can agree with you that they do work out of the box so to speak.
36h 70A print at 260°C with the only change to Siraya Tech provided profiles is flow ratio to make correct thicknes on walls.
22h ours left here so not sure of the end result but all test models came out fine so lets see if this will be a hit och miss 
Also this is printed from my AMS HT through the bypass, through PTFE-tubes all the way and it is drying while printing.
impressive, now let’s see paul allen’s tpu air
Haha, I knew someone would drop the Paul Allen line 
Let’s see if his TPU Air can handle 36 hours without a hiccup then!
I did! I needed to create my own Custom filaments in order to print it successfully, Thanks to the help of a great YouTube video below.
Here is a 3mf fiel with the Custom Filaments
Siraya Tech TPU Air.3mf (2.5 MB)
or you can find it on my Drive
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E2skdXthonDChd0rlQoVU7tmsF418Ivq?usp=sharing
I have used it to make a few things - It works great! Make sure you download the profiles they have.
Always nice to have a few more options on hand. I took Siraya Tech’s profiles and tuned them to my own liking.
Just keep in mind, the more a foaming filament foams, the weaker it gets — print it at maximum foaming and you’ll end up with something that feels more like a marshmallow than a model
My hope was that I could print grippier rc car tires with this filament. And that hope was fulfilled – printed at the softest setting, the grip on smooth surfaces (such as parquet flooring) was significantly better than standard TPU (down to 85A). I printed on A1 using the manufacturer’s print profile without any modifications, and the print was flawless.
The only adjustment that truly mattered was tuning the flow ratio to match the wall thickness. With PEBA, I couldn’t set the correct flow value because Bambu Lab’s firmware is flawed — it triggers an extruder overload even when there’s none. I eventually compensated by adjusting the line width for that filament and calculating the shrinkage instead.
Printed a set of RC plane tires. Amazing stuff, and it printed beautifully. I first printed three different calibration cubes using their profiles. Came out great. Just be sure to dry it well.
I dry every TPU during printing in my AMS HT — except for Bambu Lab’s TPU for AMS, which doesn’t seem to need it. Still, this is an amazing TPU with great potential.
If you’re printing parts for RC cars, I’d also suggest trying Siraya Tech PEBA 95A or Siraya Tech PEBA Air. You’ll get tougher tires that last longer and offer an energy return of up to 78% with the PEBA 95A. I’m still waiting to get my hands on PEBA Air, so I haven’t had the chance to test that one yet.
As I suspected, PEBA Air filament is less suitable for good tire grip than TPU Air. I would have been surprised if the PA content had provided better grip.
Due to the lack of availability of PEBA Air filament, I haven’t been able to test this myself yet, but Maker’s Muse has:
And that guy has been wrong before
Anyway, if you want better grip but less rigidity, a softer TPU will outperform any Air filament. If you’re after toughness, PEBA beats TPU in every comparison imaginable. As with all filaments, use them correctly for their intended purpose, and they’ll deliver.
And you – without even having tried PEBA Air – know better?
Anyway, if you want better grip but less rigidity, a softer TPU will outperform any Air filament.
I doubt that too, at least for TPU, which can still be processed on “normal” printers with reasonable effort.
I suspect, rather, that the burst bubbles of the foaming agent on the tire’s tread are responsible for the good grip on smooth surfaces. This is just a wild guess: they could create a “suction effect” through negative pressure. Or they simply make the surface rougher. Or both…
Speaking of using filaments for its best purpose…
| Property | TPU Air | PEBA Air |
|---|---|---|
| Grip on smooth floors |  Very high |
 Low |
| Grip off-road |  Medium |
Very high |
| Wear resistance | Medium |
High |
| Temperature tolerance | Low |
High |
| Weight | Heavier |
Lighter |
| Flex response | Damped |
Fast and springy |
So if you need tires for smooth surfaces then TPU Air is the best, for off-road you should choose PEBA Air.
I’m quite sure I know a few things better than that happy guy, no offense
He’s a YouTuber who needs to chase views to keep his channel alive — that doesn’t magically make him smarter than someone who’s not on camera. There are plenty of people out there who actually know their stuff far better than some of the fancy YouTubers do. Sad reality for those who blindly believe everything they see online…
Maker’s Muse isn’t bad at all, but not everything he says is 100% true — it’s just his point of view. That’s an important detail to keep in mind when watching YouTube. There’s even a YouTuber out there ranting about how printing with POM is “impossible.” Well, it’s definitely tricky as hell, but I print with it just fine without constant disasters. Sure, there are easier filaments to print with, but if I need precision, I machine POM in my CNC instead — right tool for the right job, simple as that.
I print with PEBA myself, so I know exactly how it behaves compared to TPU Air and regular TPU. So yeah, I can make a few educated assumptions about PEBA Air without having printed it yet. Like I said — the right filament for the right job always wins. As soon as I get my hands on PEBA Air, I’ll give it a proper run too.
And for the record — I print anything from 65A to 95A TPU straight through PTFE tubes, even though “everyone” says that’s impossible. That’s why I don’t always buy what people claim, especially not YouTubers with a financial incentive to sound confident (and sometimes wrong).
But hey, let’s not fight — at least not over filaments
For your projects, TPU Air is probably the smarter pick anyway. Check out my little table — it’s based on product data and real tests with TPU Air I’ve got on hand.
Sorry to dig up an old topic but I’ve been trying to get this TPU Air to print on both my H2C and X1C, and can’t even get it to extrude on either.
For the H2C I’m feeding it directly into the right extruder from above; I can get it loaded and can extrude it manually (at first), but as soon as I go to print something nothing comes out of the nozzle. Extruding manually at this point doesn’t work either. I’ve made sure the extruder doesn’t need to pull on the fillament spool either by ensuring there’s plenty of slack, still nothing though. For the X1C it’s a similar story, though I’m feeding the filament via the external spool tube rather than direct into the extruder from above the machine like I have for the H2C.
The filament itself should be dry - I’ve run it in my AMS HT a number of times and it’s sitting below 10% RH.
Running out of ideas as to what the issue is, has anyone here encountered this before actually getting it to print? Thanks.
Foaming TPUs work OK, I use it for RC tyres to get them soft enough to actually grip. Can go down to 60-65 shore A with very little trouble. Not used this specific brand (as far as I remember, but I have used a few so I might have), but Siraya are a good brand for engineering materials.
What temperature do you load the filament at? Maybe that’s where I’m going wrong.
I currently have Varioshore by Filaflex and I used this to start with.
