I always put support on edges,to help keep them down and not wrap up.I paint them,use enforcers,even putting tree manual to strong,but as you can see no supports appear. Any thoughts?
Have you tried setting the option for Brim Type to Outer Brim Only? That would put it around the entire outer edge. Does selecting that option show the brims?
Or is that not what you are looking for to help keep the edge down on the plate?
No,it is too short. Shouldn t there be support since i painted it there?
Adding supports is not effective against warping in this manner. With a seperation between them and the model (XY distance & Top z-distance), they are pretty bad at retaining warp induced pull forces.
Brims are much more effective as you can set a 0mm Brim distance and still be able to remove them (unlike supports with a 0mm distance which would translate pull forces).
It is usually much better to address the actual root causes of warping, i.e. plate adhesion and uneven cool down:
Plate adhesion:
- Dry filament (New filament is frequently moist, Moist filament warps and curls much more and much earlier)
- Clean plate (dishwashing liquid, water, microfibre cloth (Smooth PEI) or a stiff, clean brush (Textured PEI)
- If neccessary, use glue stick, water and a small piece of a paper towel to spread a thin, even glue film across the plate (in particular Smooth PEI)
- In some rare cases, it may be helpful to increase first layer temps by 5 (plate) to 10° (nozzle)
Warping root cause: Layered cool down:
- Avoid drafts
- Keep the print chamber/box/tent/room as warm as possible while keeping chamber temp low enough to stay away from increased elephant foot and heat creep (35°C is ideal for PLA in my experience)
- If warping persists, keep in mind that less heat in = less heat out => more even cool down: Slowing the print and using lower layer heights evens out cooling significantly without sacrificing layer adhesion. Both are volumetric effects and hence quite effective.
As for using support like structures, while they are not suitable to hold the print down (at least as long as they are intended to be removable), similar structures can be used to help slow the edge cool down effect.
Placing a cube or cylinder at the troublesome edges, using Boolean to subtract the part and then moving it out by 0.1-0.3mm will generate a local heat retention shield. Since its effectiveness is governed by the distance to the part and the need to cool down sufficiently before the next layer starts, I’d only use this as a last resort in very localized areas.
During the last 2 years, I have however only come across two warping/curling cases in the forum where the points on warping listed above did not satisfactorily resolve the warping issues. Both were very special cases (size, material).
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