Seems the only alternative is the Engineering plate - which I don’t need as I only print PLA or PETG, and I dont want to have to use glue every time…..
Smooth PEI plates were awful anyway; it only took a single print before my plate had bubbles and other damage all over it. I had to flip it and bake it so many times that I finally threw it out and will never touch one again.
Depending on what you are looking for, you have plenty of other substitutes.
This one is my current plate from DarkMoon; it is not a smooth PEI but a satin finish, and the CFX layer is great for engineering stuff.
Then you also have the cool plate:
They are expensive but very good plates. My last DUO plate did have some manufacturing defects, but they were outside the printing area, so it was only a cosmetic issue.
Curious, where did you find this out? I’ve been waiting for one to come out, but if I know that they won’t be releasing one, I’ll have to look elsewhere.
I’ve always used a smooth plate with the H2D (which is currently undergoing upgrade to H2C) and have always had good experiences with it. Never had any issues. And I’ve never even washed it etc - just been careful not to handle it. Wanted the same for the H2C ideally…..
I always handle my build plates with gloves, so that was never the issue for me.
The problem with my Smooth PEI plates is that they are extremely fragile when you print at high temperatures most of the time.
So I will never use Smooth PEI again; it’s CFX all the way from now on.
I also hope there will be a CFX plate available for my new printer.
The Smooth PEI Plate will be gradually phased out and replaced by the new Engineering Plate, which offers improved durability and a longer lifespan. As a result, the H2C will not include a Smooth PEI Plate.
Ah just careful not to confuse the older “SuperTack” with the newer “SuperTack Pro.” The older one definitely got mixed reviews (never tried it myself). Also, not sure if they updated this in the Studio slicer yet, but there’s no option for the “Pro” plate specifically (as of v2.4.0.70), so some adjustment in the filament temperature settings for the “Cool Plate SuperTack” plate may be desirable. At the default of 70°C PETG will stick really well for example, which may be hard to remove for thin parts (but nice for larger flat pieces!).
Thank you for taking the time to link me that conversation! Now I have the answer I was looking for, though it’s not what I was hoping to see. I least now I know I can quit waiting around on it.
I recently broke down and purchased the engineering plate while waiting on the smooth plate. It’s more textured than what I want, but it’s quite a bit better than the textured plate for giving a smoother looking finish. Now I just need to play around with it some more to see if it’ll be good enough for what I want.
I never understood why BambuLab have chosen stickers for the smooth plate. It is really fragile. On the X1C I regularly use a cheap 10€ AliExpress smooth PEI plate that is powder coated like the textured plate. It holds up very nice and has quite a bit better adhesion than the textured plate. Usually I prefer a finely structured surface, but there are cases where I’m happy about that smooth plate.
So it’s really not smooth plates in general but the implementation by BambuLab which is a great fail.
I’ve been using the “old” engineering plate which came with X1C, without any glue, for PeTG prints, the “new” ones seem more in need of glue, which I don’t like to use for a better use finish
I reckon I’ll need to get over this and some glue if I wan’t to get any use of those plates
have you noticed any bottom surface aspect variation because of the glue ?
I use glue for 99.98% of my prints and I never see any issues with the surface because of this. I only use liquid glue from Magigoo for the specific filament, I think I have glue from their whole product range.
Do you mean actual 3D imperfections in the surface? Then no, things come out smooth, just covered in glue. I’ve tried glue stick mostly… one time with Bambu liquid glue but mistakes were made (the part had thin edges and stuck too well to remove). Printing over old glue stick can leave permanent visible marks on a surface, so I don’t do that anymore either. I’m sure there are better glues, but using no glue is the best.