Well, @rovster (above) is recommending 80C in an oven. He gives no reference for that number, but maybe that’s the threshold to look for in a PEG filament dryer.
The idea of using the X1C as a filament dryer is an interesting one. After all, it does have both an exhaust fan and an internal fan for circulating the air around like a convection oven. Would it need a stand or something to lay on so that the heated bed doesn’t melt the spool by direct contact?
Stefan at CNC Kitchen did some testing and found that PETG could become unacceptably moist in as little as 6 hours in unprotected atmosphere. As @T_guttata points out, some prints require much longer than that, so therefore some kind of external filament dryer that’s “always on” seems warranted, unless maybe desiccant alone is enough to keep a spool dry after you’ve dried it out with heat.
Regardless, you’ll know in much less than 6 hours whether or not wet filament was the cause of the botched prints.
I follow Prusa’s recommendation and dry it at 55-60Cº for at least 6 hours. You have to keep it in a container afterwards as it absorbs humidity over time. My results got much better after drying!
I just use our normal electric oven at 60Cº. I have an eibos dryer which works fine but I can only dry one.
Once it’s heated up, it drops to around 200W - my power consumption didn’t really increase since I often use it to try Silka and Filament. A dedicated dryer would at least never pay off. =)
Do you know what the side effect is? It sticks less to the engineering plate (corners lifted)!
You know what my conclusion is?
A lot of information you find in the internet is only partially true or complete nonsense!
There are so many parameters influencing the overall result! As you don’t know most of the parameters and when testing you always change more than 1 parameter, it really is difficult to to do root cause analysis!
And: the Bambulab X1CC is NOT an out of the box printer for PETG!
I’m printing right now PETG from Prusa, default 0.2 profile, no changes - filament set to 16mm3/s and it looks as it should.
But all Filaments get dried when I open it and are stored within sealed bags and Silica Gel balls.
BUT, I’m still the meaning that you run in a problem of bad auto flow calibration and therefore probably a way too high PA.
I know… don’t know why they don’t offer that on the X1C. It’s a shame.
Also you need to know, not all Filaments like to print fast.
Did you try to slow down outer and inner perimeter to 50mm/s? And turn off cooling. PETG actually doesn’t like cooling but is needed when printing fast.
As it starts on the overhangs, cooling is currently your best option.
You could be a victim of some underlying QC issue… myself and many others have had plenty of success with PETG, but that doesn’t mean you’re doing anything wrong - at this point, I’d say this thread contains enough information and back-n-forth between folks that you should be able to use it as a reference in a support ticket to hopefully get some Bambu eyes on your issue.
Well, right at the beginning i thought that the artefacts are weird. I have printed for years with an ultimaker original and I know all the issues you can have with over or under extrusion, speed, temperature and so on. But I never had a situation where print quality was perfect for most of the part but with issues only at specific places.
Usually when you place a support request they think you are a very stupid user. Thats why I thought it’s better to try a few things first and then place the support request.
What could help me is if somone would print the same cube with generic PETG settings from Bambulab. If someone manages to print that ok (ideally with the same filament from prusa), it would mean something is wrong with my printer.
Guess what, I can reproduce the bad flow calibration…
I placed the printer differently, right above now is a strong LED light - light off, all good - light on, bad calibration.
