[SOLVED] Bad quality when printing PETG

Hi

I got my X1CC only 2 weeks ago. I tried to print PETG but I’m not happy with the quality. It is not that quality is consistantly bad, but there are weird artefacts when printing holes. I have tried a few settings and made some images for judgement. I also did some prints with PLA for comparison.

Some more information:

-model is a 30x30x30 cube with some features. The smallest holes are d=1mm. If someone wants to try, here is the step file: Dropbox - Quader30x30x30.stp - Simplify your life (how can I upload it directly?)
-both filaments are from Prusa

Print settigns are:

1)PETG, profile “0.16mm optimal @ BBL X1C”
2)PETG, profile “0.2mm standard @ BBL X1C”
3)PETG, profile “0.08mm extrafine @ BBL X1C”
4)PETG, profile “0.16mm optimal @ BBL X1C”, silent mode (50% speed)
5)PLA, profile “0.16mm optimal @ BBL X1C”
6)PLA, profile “0.16mm optimal @ BBL X1C”, silent mode (50% speed)

Any thoughts on the results and possible suggestions for improvements?








EDIT: 16.03.2023

After several weeks and endless testing (incl. Bambulab support), the issue was finally solved by @ Thrawn.
The artefacts are caused by the setting “slow down for overhang” in the Bambulab studio. According to @Thrawn it is sufficient to increase the speed for 75% overhangs from 10 to 30mm.

I did some prints where the checkbox “slowdown for overhangs” was disabled and bridging speed was increased to 200mm/s. The following comparison shows that this slight change completely removes the artefacts!

Thank you all for contribution, especially @Thrawn for his genius idea!


25 Likes

What brand are you using and what (profile) temperatures and max volumetric flow do you have set ?

The profiles are the standard profiles from bambulab studio (Generic PETG, Generic PLA). Both filaments are from prusa. I have not changed anything

1 Like

Same issues here. Really disappointed with PETG performance out of the box. I’ve had to turn my speeds way way down to get decent surface finish. The nozzle wiper doesn’t work with PETG and I keep watching the nozzle drag purge around and accumulate huge globs. I’m still working on fixing issues with top surface quality, overhang quality, failed and messy infill, and supported-surface quality.

13 Likes

A easier /more convenience way is to lower your filament max volumetric speed (in filament settings) and keep your priting settings the same

6 Likes

If it is a matter of the volumetric flow rate, why are issues getting worse with half the layer thickness?

7 Likes

That’s one way to do it, but you have more control and granularity with the speeds panel. You can just slow down the exterior wall, and that removes a ton of ringing by itself.

4 Likes
  1. was in silent mode and was worse than 1)…?

I will try lowering outer wall speed and volumetric flow rate anyway.

3 Likes

Sure, but if this setting is too high, you gonna have troubles in your prints, it does more than reducing speed, it ensure you never go higher than a certain flow rates for all kinds of lines (wall/infill/etc…) going higher than this flow rate on infill can cause problem on outer wall even if outerwall does not go higher than the max flow. (+ full clogging or half clogging etc…)

6 Likes

ok but I KNOW it can push PETG at 10mm3/s or faster, the issue is that it can’t print at four million kph. Why would I turn down the max flow when that’s not the issue?

2 Likes

In another thread someone suggested to increase the flow rate to 17mm3. He claimed to have better results afterwards… Seems to be pretty „try anything and hope“.

2 Likes

I was just pointing out that limiting flow rate have several impacts that are not forcely evident at a first think. Also being able to push 20mm3/s doesn’t mean it is the max flow rate to choose, in particular if the plastic go out the nozzle at 20°c lower than when using 10mm3/s, etc…

3 Likes

Back to the OP, IMHO it clearly show some kind of clogs, underextrusion & lack of cooling, first I would try to use the most conservative settings :

  • lower max flow rate
  • set temp not too high & not too low

You may also calibrate your filament using https://SoftFever/ calibration tools (flow & PA) and then use it back in Bambu Studio using gcode in filament settings to set linear advance found with SoftFeaver (M900 K0.015 L1000 M10 ; Set linear advance 0.015)

3 Likes

I got pretty good results with Prusament PETG after the manual calibration in Softfever, same goes for Devil Design PETG.
I started with the Generic PETG profile and changed these settings:

So I basically changed flow rate, pressure advance and volumetric speed according to the calibration results. With the Prusament I turned down cooling a little which was not needed for the Devil Design PETG.
And yes, I get decent quality with 22mm³/s.
But I can confirm that there is quite some oozing which might affect first layers. Using PLA there is no oozing at all.

5 Likes

that looks like a calibration error, and some of them look like the nozzle hit the printed object. but im no pro. i noticed most problems is on the print which not sticks well on the bed.

No 5 red looks good. the rest looks really like calibration problems. does the printer stand hard on the gound ?no shaky table ? for me it makes most sense that the table is not perfectly in place.

if you solve the problem please let me know its really weird.

I use prusament PETG without issues.

This are the profile that works best for me:

Engineering Plate
Recommended nozzle temp: 220-270

Nozzle : 240 first layer - 250 others

Plate 75 first 85 other

Max volumetric speed : 15

Overrides:
Retraction:
Length 0.5
Z-hop 0.2

Ok, lets continue the testing.

@ KikoLobo

I tried your settings! Nope, that does not do the trick.

7)PETG, profile “0.16mm optimal @ BBL X1C”, Volumetric speed: 15, retraction length 0.5, z-hop 0.2

Next, i will just reduce outer wall speed from 200 to 50mm.

8)PETG, profile “0.16mm optimal @ BBL X1C”, reduced outer wall speed from 200 to 50mm.

It is better fore sure, but artefacts are still visible.

To be honest, I don’t know what it could be. I don’t see why filament calibration should help, because quality is not overall bad, there are just those artefacts.

Just to be sure I will reprint one cube where i place the printer on the floor (currently it is on my desk).

3 Likes

This problem is either too high or too low pressure advance, or how bambu is calling it flow calibration.
Calibrate the filament with the new manual flow calibration, this should do the trick.

Can you explain why it is not consistent?What will be different compared to automatic flow calibration?

I don’t see where I can enter “flow ratio” and “pressure advance” in bambulab.

And placing the printer on the floor did not change anything!

2 Likes