Bambulab suggested to set the printer to factory defaults and run an initial calibration. I did that, but it still looks the same.
Someone asked how the infill looks. I stopped the printer before the top layer was printed. The infill looks like that:
The good news is that the problem does probably not come from your motion system if you always get the same error at the same spot in all directions.
If the problem was only appear once, I would say you nozzle was clogged for few seconds, but always at the same spot is really strange, I mean it is a consistant bug !
Did you try differents values for linear advance in filament gcode to see what happen/change ?
M900 K0.015 L1000 M10 ; Set linear advance 0.015
But for PETG you will probably need a higher value (maybe between 0.06 and 0.1):
M900 K0.06 L1000 M10 ; Set linear advance 0.06
No, I did not try it because I’m not familiar with custom gcode commands. Where do I have to set that value in Bambulab Studio?
Get the SoftFever fork of Bambu Studio, it provides pressure/linear advance calibration.
carte to share what dryer you use and the temps for each filament type? i¡'m looking to buy a filament dryer
The SUNLU Filament Dryer really nice. I own several of them. It comes with a temperature chart so you know which settings to use for each filament type.
And the new upgraded model has a larger screen and the ability to personalize your temperature settings by filament type.
Regarding pressure advance calibration:
Here you get SoftFever: Releases · SoftFever/BambuStudio-SoftFever (github.com)
This is the manual on how to calibrate:
Calibration · SoftFever/BambuStudio-SoftFever Wiki (github.com)
You should do this with every single filament, each can have different properties, even the same brand - because of the different colors. Also new batches with the same color can have different properties.
Pressure/Linear Advance is crucial when it comes to fast printing. Otherwise you have issues like your prints show.
Yes, and now what the result of yours prints ? with that setting ?
DISABLE FLOW CALIBRATION ON STARTUP
You should do this with every single filament, each can have different properties, even the same brand - because of the different colors. Also new batches with the same color can have different properties.
It is a good idea but a bit overkill IMHO, Now I never use calibration, I just adjust after a print depending on defaults I can see on print rather than doing a full calibration at each filament, usually value at least for PLA are always near 0.016, so if have some bulg I update the value, doing full calibration on each filament can be tedious. Same for temperature.
You should better buy a food dryer, you can put a cupple of spool inside at once. I use this and it is very hanndy. I use a transparent bucket as a cover (I made four 10mm holes ont the bottom of the bucket, it work perfectly. and You can add a lowcost humidity&temp sensor at the top.
I never do temperature calibration, overrated in my opinion…
PA calibration takes 7 minutes - for a spool which you will print hours. (my PLA‘s are closer to .03, humidity can make a huge difference)
Flow calibration, most of the filaments are more or less on spot with 0.95/.96 - but a 5-7min cube will also tell more.
That’s in worst case 30min of calibrations, which can make a major difference. Worth it from my perspective. 
Isn’t it supposed to be automatic? I’ve never explicitly done a PA calibration or a flow calibration. Whatever it’s doing, my X1C seems to “just work”.
Sure it does work just fine - for single color prints.
When it comes to multicolor prints, properly set up pressure advance will make the difference in quality (no pressure advance calibration with textured PEI anyway…) as it is only calibrated for the first printed filament.
As example:
If this flow calibration has a result of K 0.04 and the next color needs K 0.01x, or vice-versa, the print can be anything from good to rubbish, but outstanding.
Well, for me it is the opposite! Whatever I do with PETG, it does NOT work.
Here is the print after I set the pressure advance value to 0.036 (which you can check in my previous post).
One side is ok, but the other side is just ■■■■!
So I have basically two options left:
But since I’m still in contact with Bambulab, I will do what they tell me.
If someone out there gets good results with Prusament PETG and the Bambulab X1, please tell me!!!
I already told you.
It may have been with Devil Design PETG but I get the same results with Prusament PETG.
Ok, did not no which filament. Still in contact with Bambulab. Last contact was 2 days ago.
If I wanted to use another slicer (Cura), is there anything special to consider or should any gcode work with the X1?
First of all, I have to said that I did not try any other slicer with this printer but I cant see why it wont work, that’s gcode, the printer will make what the gcode ask it to do.
I’m still getting great results with PETG
I use a 0.16mm profile that I’ve adjusted in the slicer and it just seems to work
This Hulk print was 14 hours because my PETG settings aren’t fast by X1C standards but still much faster and with a better finish than my other printers, also did the T800 and same results along with a few other succeses
One thing to keep in mind is when my PETG is going to be stored or not used I’ll put it in my modified food dehydrator at 128°F for about 8 hours then store it in a sealed bag with a silica packet inside
I do have other colors of PETG but I’ve been digging this clear green by Tronxy so while my other direct drive printer that is a slug by comparison is chugging away with my silver or black PETG
It is possible that your firmware has a discrepancy or that your settings require fine tuning, preferably the latter of the 2 scenarios though
I think there is a big difference between “organic” and “mechanical” style parts. Most of the artifacts that we are chasing down have to do with larger flat surfaces, and these artifacts either don’t appear, or are obscured on something like a figurine.
