I’ve noticed that these problems are more pronounced when printing multiple pieces on the same plate. Below is a photo showing how the model looks when printed alone:
When the extruder passes over the area of near overhang, it seems to drag the previously printed filament.
When the extruder passes over the internal infill, I can hear it rubbing against the layer below.
The part of the print near the “beak” is warped upwards, and with the white filament, I see warping issues and something similar to a benchy hull line:
1 = You need to increase cooling for overhangs. If the layer below is being disturbed, it’s because it hadn’t cooled off enough before the nozzle came around again. Increase fan or slower layer time.
2 = Provided you’re not using Grid, you are over-extruding, calibrate filament by manual calibration method. If you’re using Grid, do not use Grid. I don’t know why slicers continue to include it. It’s bad for the printer’s mechanics and there’s not really a good reason to use it anyway.
3 = I can’t figure out what you mean. But this is probably also a cooling issue. The layers below are too soft when the layers above are being extruded. Same solution as #1.
This problem, which is particularly visible in photos 3 and 4, seems to occur precisely at those changes that we see above in the time layer.
3. Infill and Extrusion Calibration:
I am using Gyroid for infill and Monotonic for bottom surface/internal solid infill pattern (Which one do you recommend I use instead?).
I have already calibrated the extrusion and it seemed correct to me. If I used lower values, I saw a lot of space between the edge and the inside of the circle (using Orca Slicer calibrations).
If you think it would be useful, I will redo them as soon as possible and send the results here so that we can understand which value is best to use.
4. "Beak" Warping:
Here I mean that when printed, the “beak” part faces upwards (as you said, probably layer time or cooling, to be understood how to act).
In addition to the fact that there are errors that remind me of the benchy hull line with white filament.
I will try to clean the plate better, even though it is usually very clean, and I don’t understand why these problems become so obvious when I print multiple objects at the same time.
The only thing I can think of is that it may depend on the uniformity of the heating, where the sides are colder than the center of the plate, but I don’t know how much this could actually cause all the problems described.
Before you do anything else, make sure to cover the fundamentals.
Most of the symptons you describe have filament moisture as a likely (contributing) factor. So make sure you have dryed the roll and thoroughly cleaned the build plate.
Only then does it make sense to troubleshoot further.
Like reduced speeds rather than a complex cooling optimization on an open printer with (to us) unknown environmental conditions.
Hi,
As soon as the AMS 2 is available for the A1, I’ll try drying the filaments, hoping that’s the main problem, even though I currently use PLA.
I’m definitely not in a dry environment; I live near the sea and the humidity is always above 60%, but I expected to encounter these problems more with other types of filament.
As soon as I find a way to dry the filament, I’ll do another identical print and see the results. I’ll update this post to investigate further if necessary.
(Does .3mf let you download it to check the current settings? I’d like to provide as much information as possible, but sending screen after screen with the settings would be confusing, I think).
Well, mostly humidity enters the bag while waiting in seaside storage for its long, moist journey across the 7 seas. So New=Moist most of the time.
But: You already have a drier. Set the heat bed to the recommended drying temp, put the spool on it, add a cardboard cover, flip after half the recommended time and … done.
Or a cheap drier for €50-70,- will serve most people equally well.
Not sure why they don’t recommend that for the A-series. Physics are certainly not in the way.
I believe they don’t recommend it for the A1 because, being open during drying, it reabsorbs moisture.
Also, I don’t have a place to keep them dry, and I think that shortly after drying, I would find myself in the same situation as before.
Now I’ll see if I can buy silica gel and containers, even though I know that soon they will release the non-beta firmware and update the store so that everything is easier with AMS 2.
As soon as I have the chance to print with dry filament, I’ll let you know the results and we’ll see if there’s anything else to fix.
Thank you.
Actually, it does take a little while for filament to cool and reabsorb moisture.
I think it is more about the P/X/H having programmed routines for filament drying. Not sure why they did not offer that for the A-series. At a guess, I’d go for a lower heat bed temp and/or the risk of injury as it’ll not be immediately apparent that the heat bed is hot when used for drying. Bambu is really scared about liabilities from my interpretation of their actions in the last year. Can’t really fault them for that though. I just wish they felt they could be a bit more open.
For storage, both vacuum bags and cereal containers are popular. And those microwaveable, moisture indicating silica packs (I think wisedry) you can get from Amazon or other retailers are quite helpfull. I have a bunch of thr 20g packs and a few 50g packs.
I just want to add my two cents on the topic. Hull lines ruined my prints for weeks, and I eventually found a way, not to eliminate them completely, but at least to reduce them so they’re no longer noticeable by enabling the “Don’t slow down outer walls” option in the “Cooling” settings of my filament profile. I’m not sure whether this will help in the author’s setup, but in my case it often makes a significant difference.
Hi! I haven’t updated the thread because the drying materials took a long time to arrive. In the meantime, I sold the A1 and am waiting for the P2S, so I won’t be able to do any more tests on that printer. I will definitely do new tests with the P2S and, if there are any problems, I will update here.
Before selling the A1, however, I managed to do one last test:
after cleaning the plate as recommended, I reprinted the same model and the warping problem no longer occurred. As a result, the filament build-up on the side of the spout, which was caused by the nozzle rubbing against the raised layers, also disappeared.
Unfortunately, the Benchy hull line continued to form, and was even more noticeable when I printed the three objects simultaneously on the same plate.
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