And what methodology was used? What was the control and what weight/stress was applied to each? How was it measured?
Is it repeatable? What do i need to have to repeat it?
Not that i am discounting your findings I just want to know how they were reached.
The tests were done by me in Australia and someone else in the US. Different filament sources, both ABS.
The test was a full 90deg bend to the middle.
It’s clear from both sets of test photos, that the generic profile produced a tear across multiple layers and the Bambu produced a clean break along the layer. Indicating a weaker interlayer bond using the Bambu ABS profile.
It was a fairly loose test but was repeated in 2 different locations on the same type of printer, P1S And produced the same result.
Considering the Bambu profile took 2.5 hours to print and the Generic 52 mins, That’s a massive difference in printing time.
If the Bambu profile is correct, the generic should be close. Not taking nearly 3 x the Generic profile.
Needs looking at by someone who does proper testing, but you have to start somewhere.
Happy to make the test file we used available to you with the profiles.
If you’re getting a print that’s good and then cracks later, try annealing it as soon as the print finishes. You can do this in a domestic oven. If you do that, it shouldn’t crack later.
Use a good thermometer and set your oven to 90 deg C.(The lower temp for annealing ASA/ ABS) Let the oven get to temperature. I use a mercury bulb thermometer AND ADJUST THE OVEN TEMP TO THAT. but there are plenty of cheap digital thermometers that will do the same thing.
The annealing settings are at the bottom of the specific filament in the Bambu filament guide
Oh please do.
Especially the 2 profiles.
Filament
Printer
Explanation as to how you performed the deformation test. What method were the measurements done and how they were repeated
But really the two profiles that were used by you on this. I have loaded a model that I print often.
Print times:
Loaded model on 4 plates, so 4 instances. Filament 1 is Bambu ABS, Filament 2 is Generic ABS, Filament 3 is Bambu ASA, and Filament 4 is Generic ASA.
If you’d like screens and to the second time I can provide when I have more time, I’m currently doing this and trying to get ready for work.
Thumbnail view of the data. All profiles are within 5-10 minutes of each other with the exception of the Generic ASA. It is an hour more. This seems really odd to me so I’ll look into it more when home, but all profiles are stock in Studio.
Provide me with the actual file you used, and the method you deformed them and I will attempt to reproduce that as well. I’ll also need to know what filament you used as well as the aforementioned profiles, what printer and how that printer is set up.
I am attempting to understand where your profile comes up with an hour and a half extra. I ask for how you came to this conclusion and what steps I can take to reproduce this because my intial findings differ greatly. If I’m wrong I’d like to know where. Simple.
I wasn’t aware that the OP was annealing the pumpkin, or apple. No where was that mentioned. If he’s annealing then that could change things, although I don’t know how, and I don’t think it would add and hour and a half to print time. I could be wrong.
And chill with the caps. I’m not talking to you like a 5th grader, there is no need for you to come at me in that way.
ignore typos. Half cup of coffee and in a big hurry.
I’ve not used any caps in any reply to you. So you might want to consider your own chill status.
I used them in a reply to the OP to make an important point which was that the oven temp set is not the actual temp in the oven.
I generally print in ABS to make functional parts for amateur rocketry.
I’ve provided my credentials.
I’ve provided actual test results from 2 independent sources.
I’ve attached the project file with my Generic ABS and STL file. I believe the only differences are the bed temp and fan speeds. You can slice it yourself. All you have to do is change to the Bambu filament and reslice.
2.5 hours as opposed to 52 mins with Generic.
Please feel free to let us all know how you get on. Happy to hear any suggestions you have to improve print speed/ layer bonding.
AV Bay.3mf (59.1 KB)
I apologize. I misunderstood the caps.
I will, and get back to you. I gotta run but thank you.
To anyone reading, cause it bothers me. I am not intending to be rude here.
I may even learn something. Perish the thought.
The OP was not annealing. However as the cracking did not occur until hours after it had been printed, I was suggesting annealing as a way to get the print done and stable. As it’s an apple/ pumpkin, it doesn’t need to be dimensionally accurate to 0.1mm.
Ok, I understand.
Apologies.
hi I print a lot in ASA & have found all makes of filament to require slightly different settings. The majority of my prints are single wall (0,42) which I have found the most difficult. It’s a bonding issue between layers causing cracks. So when I find a filament that works - I stick with it. I also print mostly at night which allows the print to cool slowly. I find that helps.
This is a late reply and im pretty new to printing but ive had a lot of luck heating my p1s chamber using an inkbird itc-308 temp controller with temp probe along with a 400 watt ptc fan (200 watt is more than enough). I plug the fan into the “heating” plugin on the controller and i guess if i wanted to REALLY keep the temp exact i could use a couple 80mm server fans and plug them into the “cooling” plug-in on the controller so they essentially fight eachother to stay at the same temp. But for now my temps have been really stable. I tend to just hang the temperature probe from the top glass for best results so far. By all rights it is a heated enclosure at this point… still a noob tho!
Hey, sorry for the late reply but what ASA brand has worked for you best so far if you dont mind me asking.
I used the ASA from Bambulab.