Hello all, let me briefly introduce myself.
I am Daniël from the Netherlands and am fairly new to the 3d printing world.
After several successful prints with pla, I am now working with asa filament. After a while, a straight crack appears in my object (looks like 2 layers are detaching from each other). On the timelapse, you can only see the crack appear when the print is already much further along. Out of nowhere, the crack is suddenly there.
The nozzle temp. and bed temp. are good to my knowledge. I have already been searching how this can come about but haven’t found an answer yet. I hope someone here has the answer for me. Thank you in advance.
ASA needs an enclosed printer. You didn’t say which printer you have or which profile you’re using.
Printing objects one at a time can help narrow down where any issue is. Printing multiple objects can cause added cooling between layers. For materials like ASA and ABS, the additional cooling can reduce the strength of the layer bonding and can also result in higher stresses being built up in the printed object. The additional stresses and the lower bonding result in cracks.
If you’re using the P1S, increasing the bed temperature will effectively increase the chamber temperature which can give you a better print.
Norm
As mentioned, this looks like a warping induced crack.
Keep the chamber warm to even out overall cooling. You could also tweak some settings, but that really depends on your current settings and will not work for all prints.
You can also combat warping by controlling the heat input. Unfortunately, both methods make your print (much) longer:
Slow down (reduces heat input in a cubic manner)
Decrease layer height (again reduces heat input in a cubic manner)
I print with the P1S, top and door closed during printing and i print 0ne object at a time.
bed temp is 90 degrees and nozzle temp. min. 240 degrees and max 280 degrees.
The settings for ABS and ASA are identical-ish. I noticed recently that the Bambu Filament ABS settings resulted in a much slower print 2.5 hours as opposed to 50 minutes for generic ABS.
ABS likes being printed hot and fast. This gives significantly better layer bonding than the Bambu ABS profile.
Bump the plate temperature up to the upper limit… I use 97 deg C This increases the chamber temperature automatically. Print it using the generic settings.
I just checked Bambu ASA and Generic ASA slicing for a model I’ve been testing and same result. 2.5 hours as opposed to 52 mins for Generic.o Bambu profile is printing SIGNIFICANTLY slower. I did some destructive testing on a printed ABS tube and the break was straight around the print line with the Bambu profile and torn, not around the layer bond for the generic profile. So the layer bond is better with the generic profile for ABS, and ASA is roughly the same plastic family.
Which ASA profile are you using? Bambu or Generic?
thanks for this, i’m using the Bambu profile.
I want to try a generic, but i don’t have a generic for ASA or ABS in my list.
Do you have the settings for me?
If you click on the filament you’re using, at the bottom of the list of possible filaments is “Add/Remove Filament” Click on that. The generic ASA should be just after Generic ABS filament. As its alphabeticly sorted all the Bambu filaments come first… If the ASA filament is not there, try printing with the Generic ABS settings.
If you PM me, we can sort out a 3mf file with all my settings in it for ABS. Which should be good with ASA.
Regards
Norm
The Generic ASA and ABS profiles are significantly different from the Bambu ASA and ABS settings.
To me, this calls the Bambu ABS/ASA filament settings into question. The Bambu and Generic filament are still fundamentally the same filament and yet the sliced model speeds are nearly 3 times longer for Bambu filament, compared to the same generic filament. Printing slower to give better dimensional accuracy is of little use when the object printed won’t hold together.
ASA and ABS, both do not get completely molten like PLA or PETG. This makes it more difficult to get the next layer to stick to the previous. Printing hot and quick, keeps everything stuck together. The compromise is dimensional accuracy.
You can control that by printing a test cube and using scaling of the STL file to adjust it back to the correct size when printed. This eliminates any change to printer calibration which would affect other filament settings.
I just got up and on my first cup of coffee. Forgive any typos. Keep in mind that with the below I’ve printed numerous spools (12ish) of Bambu filament (ABS, ABS-GF, ASA ASA-CF) and one Inland spool (ABS).
I disagree with Bambu ASA profile being bad. While this convo went on last night I finished an ABS print (full bed 11 hrs) and printed the Bento Box body out of ASA-CF. For the most part the CF is pretty much ASA profile.
The only change I make to my ASA profile is a constant temp of 275. That is what CF runs but I did this before. The 5 degree bump helps adheison and flow, as well as keeping the chamber just a tad warmer. “Tad” equals abouty 3 degrees. I made that up. I don’t think speed is an issue with either ABS or ASA.
The layer issue is what some have pointed out, heat related as well as speed. I see some are encouraging you to slow down. I’d suggest the 5 degree bump, and let the chamber soak for abotu 10 minutes. You could get away with 5 but try 10 to be safe.
As well, once the print starts, don’t open the door or top. Kinda “duh” but others will read this too, and well…you know.
The ABS settings are fine as well, assuming you keep that door closed and have the internal around 55-60. I’ve printed small ABS on stock profile and had the door and top open. It worked cosmetically. Wasn’t thrilled with the strength.
Maybe lastly, give yourself a little cheat. For the door, where alot of heat is lost (just stand there when printing ASA and you’ll smell it, if you smell it air is getting out). I use this, and it works well.
There are a few others but I found this one works well and it’s sturdy to handle opening and closing without falling off or seperating.
Another thing you can do is add some thin(ish) foam tape around where your top rests. This is optional, but if you want to try and keep as much in as possible, have at it. I have a riser that (for now, been saying that for ahwile) sits just on the machine, but I have thin adheisve backed foam around the edge where the glass sits.
I will rarely tell anyone they’re wrong. I will disagree and I disagree that you need to change the profiles other than a constant heat. I have prints to prove that, but I’m sure others do as well.
Put in a generic asa profile this morning and I saw no difference from the Bambu profile. Manually changed nozzle and bed temp.
After slicing I also had no difference in terms of print time.
During printing I kept door and top closed.
No crack occurred during printing, from the moment the print was finished I let the print cool down in the printer (about 35 minutes). Removed print from the printer and no crack could be seen. After I removed the support material and put the print on my desk I heard snapping sounds and yes the cracks are back in. Next time I will let the print cool longer in the printer. I want to thank you for thinking with me and sharing the information.
These tests were on ABS with Bambu and Generic profiles. With the Bambu profile, L-R 1st, 2nd it broke along the layer. With the Generic, it did not break along the layer and was stronger. Remaining 4 pictures.
These tests were undertaken after discovering the time anomaly printing with the Bambu as opposed to the Generic profile.
For this tube, the print time was 2.5 hours Bambu, 52 mins Generic. And Generic profile was stronger. Additionally, tests were done with my printer and included annealing. The Bambu profile still broke along the layer and the Generic did not either annealed or not.
Top to bottom .
Bambu, annealed
Generic annealed
Generic not annealed.
The Bambu profile may be dimensionally more accurate, but it’s nearly 3 times longer. The generic profile is definately stronger.
As the OP was having issues with inter layer bonding, that’s why I suggested Generic. Based on actual evidence…
