Spacing needed when using "by object" printing is too conservative

I’ve bought an A1 mini specifically for doing some production of some D=60mm h=10mm rings in PETG. I now produce 5 at a time with my Ender V2, but I don’t seem to get 4 of them on the A1 mini build plate.

When I use Cura, make a machine profile for the A1 mini and fill in the print head size, I can get 4 parts on the build plate without issues.
Unfortunately, I can’t yet seem to get all the other settings figured out properly, so the rings keep coming off the bed when I use the gcode from Cura.

Is there a way to override the Bambu safety settings for this? I’m sure the print head won’t actually hit the other parts if I just control the sequence of the parts properly.

Any suggestion to get me to print 4 at a time is welcome… Otherwise I’ll start manually editing the gcode. Which I’ve done many times before on my Ender, but it’s always a bit risky.

Merge 2 of them to one object, and print 2 of those pairs.

Why do you actually print those by object?

The prints are faster and cleaner when you don’t have all the excess travels from one part to the other in each layer. On my Ender it was a necessity, because there was quite a bit of stringing with PETG. It’ll probably be less of an issue with the Bambu, but still, sequential printing is preferred.

Merging them together kind of defies the purpose, because then it would still move from one to the other in each layer.

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I decided to at least try to print a batch without the “by object” setting.
Result came out perfect (no stringing problems) and I could even fit 6 of them on a sheet. Print time wasn’t significantly longer given the extremely rapid travel speed of the Bambu.

I’m happy. Thanks!

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Althought the original question is answered I would like to come back to this:

I want to print shallow little disks that are 15mm in diameter and only 8mm high. I would love to use sequential printing but the discs are tiny compared to the size oh the printer head which is kept as a safty zone. Most of the buildplate would still be empty.
I wondered, as the parts are very shallow, if it was possible to print them right next to one another by using a printer with a nozzle sticking out the printhead more than 8mm.

Similar to nonplanar printing one could take advatange of just a little bit of nozzle clearance.

Does anyone have experience with this method? Or can recommend a (bambu) printer that would have a sufficient nozzle clearance? Or can point me to a fatale flow in my thinking? I would be greatful for any help!

[I hope my discription was understandable, I’m non native speaker :slight_smile: ]

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If you really want to, you can create a new printer profile and edit the extruder clearances under Basic information.

Okay, thats great. But first I would need a printer, that has nozzle clearance of let’s say 10mm. Does an Bambu (or Prusa) printer have that?

Not that I looked, but I’m not aware of aftermarket hotends for the A1 mini with a longer nozzle.

Disclaimer: I’m not associated with Bambu Lab. Understand what the settings are and follow the settings provided below at your own risk.

I believe the height from the bed to the part cooler when the A1 mini is printing is ~6.5mm. So if your printing objects 6mm-25mm tall, you can set your radius clearance to 1mm, then make sure to space the objects apart 35mm left to right and 25mm front to back. That should allow you to print as tightly on the build plate as possible without physically modifying the printer. :warning:︎ Use your slicer preview tab to make sure it is printing objects only in one direct side-to-side. Ex. let’s say we’re printing 10 identical objects, we placed objects 1-5 in the first row and 6-10 in the 2nd row. Make sure that it prints it sequentially either 1-5 or 5-1 without skipping, if it will print 1 then 3, then 2, that’s a no bueno. If the printed sequence for the 1st row was 1-5, make sure 2nd row is printed in reverse order 10-6, otherwise the toolhead might collide with the printed part.

I know, there’s a lot to think about, but that is why the default settings are like that, it’s so people wouldn’t have to think to much to make it work.

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