I’ve been using the Lightyear G10 plate with my P1S for some time now. I now use it for ASA printing a relatively big and flat print.
All precautions I take to succesfully print this are as follows:
Thoroughly clean bed with soap and IPA.
Heatsoak the bed for ±30 minutes.
print without any fans on.
first layer height is 0.1mm.
The problems I have however, is that the print seems to partly dettach on the same specific point every time, no matter the model or how much I clean the bed.
I am refering to the darker grey area’s on the prints, these are the sides facing the buildplate.
If you flip the plate does it do the same spot? I’ve got a few plates that suffer this defect in spots. I can’t see any problems with the surface and have given the surface a light wet sand and sterilise-type wash in hot water etc. I tend to avoid that area with flat prints (I have other plates). It could be a number of things, either heat spots or silicone contamination are my first thoughts.
Sorry you’re experiencing this. We’ve purchased 3 of their plates and each has failed to perform as advertised 7 months later.
Since the G10 is glued to the plate the material isn’t perfectly flat. We’ve debated going the X1Plus route simply to see the flatness of them haha. But we also find ourself still using an adhesive to make these work, they’ve been no better than smooth PEI plates honestly.
They scruff/scratch REAL easily and since we ordered their 1st gen plates the tangs for the wipe area’s have all broken simply from wear because of how thin the ears are. Now they’ve fixed it but we tried to contact and reach them within the “Warranty” period yet received a cold shoulder and 0 responses.
So we do not condone or recommend their business at all to any user anymore. Our emails back an forth seam sus in the beginning as well since we spoke briefly about becoming a reseller, they mentioned changing suppliers and improving G10 yet that was months ago and we’ve seen the same reviews of warping, scratches, and unlevel plates.
Thanks for your reply!
I had to wait a long time to receive the plate, which I was not happy about but at least I received it.
ASA sticks really well to the high temp plate. It’s good for the print, but I’m working on some projects semi-automating the printing process and the automatic releasing of the print on the G10 is essential for that.
Do you reckon the flatness of the plate is the reason of the problems I’m having? Shouldn’t ABL counter that problem?
ABL can only do so much to compensate for Z axis. If the deviations are too extreme then you’d have an uneven part which the end result would be a lifted region or troubles higher in Z.
I know that marlin based printers such as an ender can run firmware to enable what’s called “Z Height Fade Mesh” so basically it’ll only compensate the Z mesh deviation by a specified amount (Fade Height = 5mm) so after that height it’ll stop compensating and print as if it was nominally flat again.
Extreme deviations can sometimes be reduced to a range that the ABL can handle by performing the manual tramming procedure. If that does not help, the bed may be warped. There is a long thread in the X1C forum with various methods of measuring warp.
I found the adjustment knobs hard to grip and turn precisely. There are several knob or wrench designs that can be printed which provide better leverage. I used this one.
Do you really think that tramming of the bed could fix the issue?
As stated in OP, I do not have any of these problems when using the High Temperature plate, which leads me to believe the issue is inherent to the G10 plate.
I cannot be certain tramming will have any effect, but it is easy to check. At the very least it will eliminate one possible source of the first layer problem.
