I think it is referring to detection for much more than build plates. Likely automatic detection for build plates, laser cutting/engraving plate, vinyl cutting plate, pen drawing plate, and the various materials that bambu will sell.
1 Like
I think this is build plate detection and stuff because the sensor (whatever it is hopefully lidar for more stuff) is scanning the build plate QR code. That is my reasoning.
I would argue that itâs scanning a plate made of microQR codes, not just a single one to tell it what plate is on there (though I would expect that feature as well). The fact the plate is covered in unique codes could mean that itâs used for calibration. Why would the reveal mention âindustrial grade accuracyâ and âsome assume CNC is the only path to accuracyâ if itâs just checking what plate is used? That doesnât make much sense
6 Likes
Perhaps some sort of dimension calibration? It could travel a certain amount and then check the plate to see how much it actually moved.
2 Likes
Iâd bet it is similar to the plate used by Shaper Origin
2 Likes
It seems to be a high-resolution optical calibration, which I am unaware is used in conventional 3D printers. Just a thought: If the markers are etched into the plate, wouldnât this likely affect the surface of the first layer? Another option is to project the pattern onto the plate.
In any case, this would permit the mapping of the surface level.
But to mechanically compensate for this, one would need to have multiple calibration points (e.g. screws) below the bed, to make minor adjustments; alternatively is solely intended for software adjustments.
Or is it just marketing?
1 Like
Maybe it has something to do with calibrating the position of the two printheads? One way or another they need to be precisely aligned relative to one another, though I think there may be an upward facing camera for that.
1 Like
Maybe also power loss recovery? No need to home the nozzle or anything if you can do a quick movement and know exactly where you are. Just a wild guess though
1 Like
My posts from the other thread.
Makes sense because you wont be able to set material at x0, y0. Because the head would hit the aux fan. Youll have to set the material in the center of the bed. This thing will find its position and align the sliced project to it or whatever its called for laser etching. Something for the laser folks, it seems
.3mm is not accurate for an actual 3d scanner though
Maybe 2d designs at .3mm resolution. Not sure how it would scan the sides of a 3d object. It would need a turn table and a side mounted scanner on a vertical rail. Slowly raising and lowering as the part spins. Also a far superior sensor. This looks like lidar 2.0.
Because of the design if the printer, they would have to use something to âfindâ the material to be etched. Because you cant set it in the corner of the bed.
This was probably an expensive way of being able to use a laser in a 3d printer. compromise of $ or bed space. They could have made the chamber wider which would have given you the whole 350mm x axis and x0y0 alignment stops. But this way they can advertise 350mm in a small package. Its like the smaller 256mm printers with exclusion zones. only, 25mm of each side of the bed is an exclusion zone for the laser and when using both nozzles. Maybe slightly less for the laser, but then the laser probably loses some y axis near the back of the bed(it mounts to the front center of the toolhead)
It probably also does the lidar work that the x1 was doing.
the etch plate is basically these.
Almost forgot, because the lidar is on the right side of the head, it wont be able to scan 75mm ish of the left side of the bed. So probably not for bed level scanning. This is why a beacon is centrally mounted
Anybody remember what the dimensions of the precut material was?
1 Like
Bambus next release. It has a bbq grill in the glove box also. Filtration and parachute are extra. It also has a laser, but if you want the good one, thats extra too
Cant use the back seats while bbqing
4 Likes
2 Likes
Hey, I said no back seats
Are those shrimps on the barbie? Forum seems dead today
1 Like
The Shaper Orgine has to position the tool on the object, this 3D Printer has to adjust the tools to each other.
So, when it comes to designing more precise objects with greater precision of 3D Printers, this is may the way to go. However, since the finished product is still plastic and the need on even more precise geometry is already good (even the aging of the workpiece does not eliminate a more precise geometry), thereâs no need, and no need to adjust the tools. Whatever, weâll see.
The only way to more accurately position the prints from both nozzles that align with each other is through more precise alignment. But weâll see, thatâs may, if it, probably a bit over the top.
Somebody will post it here too, so heres my guess on the ams
Shuts off after the humidity level drops below the set point? And turns back on if it goes above set point?
Beacuse if its already dry, âheating is not dryingâ
Other dryers are stupid as far as actual active control. If Im right, it could automatically change heating level and fan speed based on feedback from a humidity and temp sensor.
This way, we can set and forget.
This would also make it worth buying more than 1. Maintain up to 24 rolls
Atleat, this would be what I would want. A little flap ghat closes wont help when you open the lid to remove or insert a roll.
Edit: Desiccant would keep it below 15% once dry. Would only need to kick on when you open the lid. If a roll was wet at that time(new roll inserted) the humidity level would rise in the ams, causing the dryer to stay on until its dry. The humidity spike when you open the lid, is what makes the automation possible.
2 Likes
this would be a big win! i hope youâre right
1 Like
Letâs put some numbers on this. Say you live in a somewhat humid environment where the RH is 60% when itâs 20C. Thatâs very close to what it is in my garage at the present moment. That means your drybox would have to be kept at 52.5C to reach an RH inside the box of 10% RH. Now, if itâs already dry inside your drybox, it wouldnât have to be that high. But if itâs leaky, thatâs what youâd be looking at. Otherwise, your filament will be the desiccant.
So, if you happen to live in the tropics, where itâs even worseâŚ
Even if it were 50% ambient relative humidity at 20C, which probably isnât uncommon inside even a conditioned space, at least where I live, youâd still be looking at 49C heating inside the drybox. Round the clock if you were wanting to keep your filament stored in there.
Now I can see why desiccant is the preferred method.
With PLA, maybe you could live with 20%RH (as reported by @MZip) inside the drybox, so with PLA the temperature wouldnât have to be as high. Iâm not sure what the maximum tolerable RH would be for nylon, but surely lower than that.
Anyhow, I welcome it, because weâll finally get a lot more data on what RH percentages various filaments need to be maintained under. The manufacturers should say, but Iâve run across only one instance where it was in the datasheet. That was Siraya Techâs user guide for its 85a TPU. It recommended storing at an RH of less than 15%: Flex TPU 85A User Guide - Siraya Tech
I hadnât paid attention to the âHeating is not dryingâ title until now, but maybe Bambu is poking fun at all the lousy âfilament dryersâ on the market which more or less heat the air but leave the moisture trapped inside the drying box. Maybe Bambuâs new AMS uses some other method for getting that moisture out of there, like either a chemical desiccant, molecular sieves, or, as this guy speculates, some kind of electrified membrane:
Iâve read a lot of comments from people saying they think cutting with the laser module inside the H2D is a terrible idea because of all the contamination that would arise from the smoke. Just trying to consider it from all possible points of view: Is there anyone here who thinks itâs a good idea, or even a great idea?
All joking aside I think itâs a great idea just because it means ABS filtration is going to be fantastic.
Purely on the merits of packaging a laser cutter inside a 3d printer, not so much.
1 Like