Spool Holder Print: what went wrong?

Just got my first 3d printer! The P1S :slight_smile:

I have gotten many great prints thus far, but when printing the spool part (using basic PLA, and the STL file included with printer) it turned out like this:


Any thoughts on how to correct this?

Appreciate any help!

Looks like wet filament. Dryed it as recommented before use?

3 Likes

It seems that this happened because I modified the Part Fan speed to 50% and reduced the Auxiliary fan speed.

For the second try, I left it as default (100% fan speed) and it printed fine.

Do you think it could be the Part Fan or Aux fan that made such a big difference? I was under the impression that PLA didn’t really need the Aux fan.

2 Likes

:+1: happy to read that!

What plate were you using? Was the door / top cover open?

I could imagine that the aux fan helped keeping the temps near the hotend lower. If the filament gets too warm it also starts oozing, uneven extrusion, etc.

The DOOR is no theme. I print PLA with all cloed and have no issues.

I was using the Textured Plate, door and top door closed, 220 celcius.

Hmm makes sense. I’ll keep experimenting.

All of the Bambu recommendations that I have seen for printing PLA have said to have door open, top open or removed. Cool room temperatures might make enclosed printing possible, but I start with the recommended conditions.

1 Like

I learned the hard way when printing PLA to keep the top off. The hot end clogged a couple times when the chamber temp got up past 35C or so. I guess the PLA gets too soft to be able to push through. Is that called “Heat Creep”…?

1 Like

Textured PEI also causes problems with me while having the top closed. If I want to have it closed, I use the cool plate. Works well with PLA, at least for me. So might be worth a try.

Or just open the door and / or top :slight_smile:

2 Likes

:sob: what Do you all Do, that you have such PLA-Problems?!?!? I print PLA with nothing Open, removed or so. Closed door, Closed top. PRINT. EVERTHING FINE. :laughing:

Hi @Lucyna_Kushinada,

I don’t really have problems with PLA unless I let the chamber temp get up too high. What temp is your chamber at when you print PLA…?? :grinning:

Up to 45 C. Never had Problems…

this ist at the Moment…

Thanks for that reply. That’s interesting. Mine will only go 36C and then it gets an attitude. I guess different extruders handle the heat differently… Oh well… :face_with_diagonal_mouth:

Hmm…no asked the obvious question…speeds?

That IS imho Not really an issue with Bambu. The Standard-Speed eats Up nearly everthing… :laughing: with Standard profiles

If you print fast enough you are less likely to get a clog as the filament will not have enough time to heat up in the extruder. Retractions also affect this heavily.

There are also filaments that just withstand a little more temperature, for example those with glitter tend to be harder. On the other hand, fibre-filled ones (like Vibers PLA or PLA-CF) will soften and clog sooner.

So YMMV, but anybody who ever had a clog due to printing with a closed printer is bound not to do that mistake again, as clearing an extruder clog is a bit of PITA on out printers :slight_smile:

I agree with that… Makes sense… :grinning:
I used this Wood Filament and ended up getting clogged. Any suggestions on Temp for this one…?
I used the default setting they suggested…

You need to differentiate where the clog is

You either get a clog because the filament has softened in the extruder because of not enough heat break cooling and heat creep (high chamber temperature due to heated bed and the printer closed), which clogs the extruder. This can be alleviated by printing fast, minimizing retractions or simply opening the printer.

The second type of clog is in the nozzle because of particulates in the print, like with wood-filled filaments. Yes, those filaments are also more likely to soften and cause the first type of the clog, but they also clog just because the wood particles are too big for a 0.4mm nozzle, or break down in the nozzle etc.
I printed many things with wood filaments, and you get a clog sooner or later with a 0.4mm nozzle. Just don’t do it. Even the manufacturers usually recommend at least a 0.5mm (so 0.6mm for us) nozzle. Stick to that recommendation or don’t use the filament. To be honest I never ever had a clog in the nozzle with anything but wood filaments, so I just avoid them now.

I can however wholeheartedly recommend colorFabb Vibers PLA or stoneFill as a wood alternative - it has a very woody texture and I never had a clog with in a 0.4mm nozzle. Bambu PLA-CF also has a woody texture (red and green in particular) and I think is cheaper. It curiously also smells similiar to Vibers PLA.

Thank you for that info sir. I have a .06 nozzle I’ll try with that wood filament.

I’ll have to try those filaments you recommended but I got 4 rolls of this stuff on sale so I want to try and use them. :upside_down_face:
What slicer settings would switching to a .06 nozzle involve…?