Had a largish print that I changed mid-print to sports mode. Although it was mostly ok, in various places there were bits of filament in bunches sticking out of otherwise perfect places. Would you normally change any other parameters when upping the speed to prevent this?
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It’s been my experience that with some filaments you have to up the extruder temp another 5 degrees or so it can extrude a bit faster. It maybe as much as 5 to 10 degrees higher than the temperature listed for the filament itself. Due to the fact the faster you extrude; the faster the filament going through the nozzle cools it down.
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First time trying out the sport mode with the internalised “film sticking fixture” model.
• Printed directly from the printer’s touch screen with stock settings
• Changed to sport mode from standard mode after the first 3 layers.
When it started printing the grid infill across the build plate, terrible things, as shown in the video, happened.
The lines were broken and created many bumps, which led to the nozzle hitting the bumps pretty hard and creating very unsatisfying results.
If it was all about the extruder temp, I do hope they automatically bring the temp up to a degree that matches the printer’s speed when I switch to a different speed mode.
Printed with Bambu Lab PLA
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I use sport mode all the time, but it has pre-conditions:
- I use it at least when 30% of my print is finished
- It should never be activated, if the first layer is not fully finished yet
Summary: Sport mode needs a “good foundation”, before you can start it. You have to visibily have a good block of finished print, before you press the sport mode.
I usually activate it after 30% of my print. I did that for the last 5 prints and never had any issues or flaws in my print.
So let your print “grow” and if you see a nice solid block, you can easily press on “Sport Mode” 
I have never activated the “crazy mode” though. Did anyone test it yet? I hesitate to press that button lol
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Yep! Ran Ludicrous Mode, successfully too. The real tricks I think were:
- I carefully ran all the Calibration tests in OrcaSlicer and saved custom filament profiles, so the flow was totally perfect. Note I did not raise the temp as is normal for going faster, but this filament (Polymaker PolyMax PC) is pretty forgiving. Normally I’d recommend raising 5-10°C.
- I let it finish a few layers.
- It was a simple, engineering model not some delicate wispy castle with a million details.
I actually printed several as I worked out variations and dialed in the model I made. The first had a noticeable seam, but otherwise was very good and totally strong. I reduced the Seam Gap to 10% and it was much better, not great but I didn’t play more.
Absolutely. I switched after three or so layers, but again, a simple model.
The original Print Time was 1:48. It finished in 1:04. Pretty nice savings.
Would there be a GCODE command for setting the speed. 124% is Sport Mode. So I was wanting to set the “GCODE at height” and run the Speed Change and Temp change automatically. Would the Marlin GCODE work?
Do yourself a huge favour if you want to use those buttons to speed things up…
Run a calibration print at the speeds you are after first in order to find the required increase the print temp.
Then run a max flow rate check with this higher temp and use a LOWER than max result for your settings.
For the settings use the first layer print temp as you always do and use the higher temp for the other layers.
If you don’t use Studio increase the temp from layer 3 or 4 onwards to ensure the bottom layers are perfectly smooth first.
Hit the speed button somewhere in the solid infill, not while printing the walls.
Double check your model in the slicer preview for speed and flow rates.
If the majority of the model is already maxing out the flow rate for that temp then all you can gain in extra speed is what the max flow rate for the higher temp ACTUALLY allows for.
And if you flow rate test revealed the machine maxes out at 240mm per second doing 0.2mm layers than it really makes no sense trying to hit the ludicrous button for 400mm per second - the print will fail or suffer badly in quality.
Just saying as you can cheat physics guys - AND girls of course…
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