Got this nozzle.
Would this be a stainless or hardened version?
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That is a hardened steel nozzle.
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Greatā¦ got it together with the new P1Sā¦ I thought it had only stainless nozzleā¦ saves me from buying and replacing
You can also check the Bambu store. I tried to paste the product link and screenshots, but the forum wonāt allow me to.
In the picture it does look like the hardened steel nozzle but the P1S is supposed to come with stainless steel. Hereās a side by side (hardened on the left)ā¦
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I have noticed in some lights the grey looks more black than grey.
The one attached to one of my P1S printers looks black in the machine, but, on closer inspection, it is more grey.
Some of these are very obvious, others less so. Although it might be my failing eyesight. The bottom picture is the most clear.
The spare replacement nozzles supplied with the P1S printer are grey with decent light. I have bought all hardened steel ones to replace them, I just need to build up the courage to swap the first one out and then do the others.
I suspect I will need help though as the tremors are bad and the gears also need to come out.
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Will you be able to check if itās stainless or hardened steel with the use of a magnet? The hardened steel will be magnetic, stainless not so?
Just look at it. Grey vs black. If you havenāt changed it and have P1 then itās stainless, same for A1 series. I believe the X1 comes with hardened.
The black tip is magnetic, grey is not.
Agreed.
I just purchased a hardened steel nozzle for my A1 mini. Anyone know why it came with 2 small screws?
Anyone notice any difference between stainless and hardened in PLA/PETG?
As of now it does, at least in the current public Beta which I am running.
Install the beta. Then click on āDeviceā at the top. On the right panel where it says control, click on the āPrinter Partsā button. The printer parts window will display and it has a drop down to select between hardened steel nozzle and stainless steel (the default). THEN the printer knows you are running a hardened steel nozzle.
Currently however, my printer device only allows me to select a .2 and a .4 nozzle which is stupid because i bought a .2 and a .6 when I purchased the printer, so why that setting is not there is just a ridiculous mistake or its Beta.
Thatās in the regular version too, it has been for a while. Do you know why it differentiates between hardened and stainless?
Its the temperature resistance. Hardened steel doesnt perform thermal transfer as well as brass or stainless, so often times the stainless has to overheat by a few degrees, then cool back down to the stable temperature whereas a stainless usually can slowly build into the temperature. That is why on the Ender 3 v3 models it has to wait for it to cool after it sets the nozzle temp before it starts the print. I see this in real time on my Ender v3 KE. Iām running the stainless on my bambu now but I have a .4 HSN waiting to go in. Just havent needed it yet.
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This also translates into challenges if there are any temperature swings, like a nearby A/C vent kicking on. The printer canāt combat the temperature change as quickly.
Normally Hardened steel has a higher thermal conductivity than stainless steel however the difference of that thermal conductivity varies greatly with the types of alloys used for each.
To my knowledge there is no change in how it slices if you set it to either however some people, especially print farms, may use it as a reference on what nozzle is installed on which printer and may have customized filament or process profiles for each type.
Just to put something not thread related in, I have read that if you are printing something food related, you are supposed to use Stainless (I did look to see if this had been mentioned but didnāt see anything). Donāt ask me what filaments are food safe.
PLA is food grade and yes I believe you are in fact correct on the nozzle as well. I know with Brass there is a noticeable difference when heating (it takes several seconds of the temp staying above set temp and cooling back down. For example if I set a brass nozzle to 220 its goes to 221.7 . 5 . 3 .221.5 etc but with hardened steel that process goes several degrees higher than a brass nozzle and takes considerably long to stabilize to 220 precisely. I have an Ender 3 v3 as well and it uses both brass and hardened steel (for carbon fibers etc).
So for the record, I switched to hardened steel and I have been switching on my AMS Lite between PETG and PLA and its printing just fine. I did set mine to hardened Steel in the āPrinter Partsā under the device tab, but I didnt test it with the wrong nozzle because its only a month old and why try to give it problemsā¦ No sense in trying it if I know its the wrong setting no matter what it does. If they cant name a setting correctly I cant trust them to program it correctly for sure.