Hello, I’m a little confused but whenever I print this model it’s stringing. I have tried the following:
Retraction changed from 0.8 to 1.6.
100% retraction before wiping
Temperature tower. No stringing in temperature tower
Retraction calibration. Was perfect at 0.8
Linear Advance calibration
Only thing not done is flow rate, but I have no issues with any other model including the tests above. I did do a torture test for stringing and even that came out less stringy than this. It seems to be whenever it’s small walls/thin walls with a travel distance that then goes over the wall.
Another reason I asked is that’s inside the chamber (i know, duh) and unless you print just pla and PETGish you’re going to want that in PETG, and if you go for ABS you’ll maybe want to consider ASA or ABS.
Now that my OCD is out of the way, on that part alone I wouldn’t stress it. Hit quickly with a heat gun and you’re good. Looks nice.
I usually only hit stringing when it’s too hot. I know you ran a temp tower, but how did it look regardless of stringing?
Sorry I can’t offer more. More curious than anything. I do only hit stringing when it’s wet (and you dried) or too hot and it oozes.
Sorry.
Speed. Did you adjust speed? I noticed on their website they have relatively slow speeds for the material. Everything else looks like normal, but 20-50mms is slow…
Makes me wonder if heat plus faster speed is causing the issue. Doesn’t answer for the otherh filaments, but maybe…
There are many smarter than me, hopefully will get a solution.
The temp tower came out perfect. From 210 - 220 degrees was no stringing and I print at 220 which was the default profile.
And yeah I use the chamber printing, but I had the top off and door open.
I haven’t adjusted speed settings, but the bambu filament strings less and moves faster. I think I might have an idea, but not certain
This section is where the stringing happens the most
I think it could be due to the short inner wall. I’m wondering if it’s too slow and the PLA cools to a tacky point and it strings across during the wipe. In speed terms, this filament is half the speed of bambulabs in that section
This is a tricky one and, from personal experience, probably the hardest thing to calibrate. To answer the question, this should NOT be happening with regular PLA, as in your example with the blue filament. There is something seriously off with the calibration. Did you use the default Bambu Profiles for PLA Basic?
Another, less likely, factor could be incorrect temperatures being read by the thermistor underneath the silicone sock. When was the last time you removed the sock and scraped away any buildup? When was the last time you inspected the sock and the nozzle tip for accumulation? This isn’t normally part of routine maintenance, but when I had this problem and couldn’t figure it out, I changed the nozzle, thinking that was the issue, only to discover buildup under the silicone sock. I scraped it away with my fingernail, put on a new sock, and tested it. The stringing went away. Since that’s the only thing I changed, I assumed the accumulated filament was affecting pressure advance or the temperature reporting back to the MC card.
Of you haven’t already done so, try using the Orca String Hell model. That name is an understatement, it can’t be perfectly calibrated at least with my humble skills. But if you get close, you can really improve stringing.
Here’s a tip, cut the model and only use 1/3rd. It will save you a lot of time, otherwise, you will be waiting 10 minutes. The 1/3rd model is good enough.
I used the default Bambu Profiles - When I did a temperature tower, there was no stringing at 220 degrees so I kept it at 220 degrees.
One thing I noticed is when I changed the settings on this print from the custom settings that came with the file, to the default 0.20, stringing was severely reduced. Only had one string.
I’m starting to think it could be the model itself with a 0.4 nozzle as when my friend printed this exact same model, they also had stringing.
I will definitely inspect the silicon sock and nozzle as I have only had the device for 2 weeks I have yet to do that, but I am meaning to swap to the 0.2 nozzle as I am going to be doing some intricate prints.
Two things you just added that are important. If this printer is only two weeks old, its doubtful enough filament accumulated under the sock, in my example, I hadn’t checked it for over 30 spools of filament before it gave me issues.
The second thing you added was that this was reproduceable on another machine. I think you are on to something and looking at the model might make sense. Either way, you’re pursing the right course of inquiry which should lead you to an eventual solution.
Yeah, except I have no idea where else to look. One thing I noticed is the smoothing coefficient takes place in the original model in this location that’s most problematic. What I can see in the model is the linewidth is thicker, and also that it goes slower.
When I don’t use the models custom settings, this doesn’t happen outside of one layer, which could mean this is where the problematic point is. Now to identify if it’s speed, flow rate, or where to look.
Can see the line width here is wider (Showing by linewidth) It looks like standard innerwall is 0.45 and that innerwall is close to 0.6
And the speed here shows that it suddenly slows down there as well, usual inner wall is 300mm/s this looks to be around 150mm/s
I think it could be a combination of this short space being at higher linewidth cause it doesn’t happen anywhere except the back of the model as well as it uses Arachne and the line width thickens there too.
Issue is I wouldn’t know how to tackle this as before with the A1 it did all this for me haha
