This is Clockspring3D’s “Torture Copter”. It isn’t particularly difficult to print, especially on a Bambu, but it’s fun. It prints upside down and the rotor spins freely. There’s a multicolor version too - I may try that for giggles.
I made these refrigirator magnet looking like LEGO bricks. Had lots of fun making them. Let me know what you think
Printer used Bambu Lab Carbon X1 with AMS
Filament used Generic PLA
Model link LEGO style Fridge Magnets by ChrisT1974 - Thingiverse
Print settings Standard Bambu Studio settings but with 3 walls and 3 tops / bottoms
Print time 10 minutes
Model: Jumbo Technic Bricks 5:1 Scale by metalman7 - Thingiverse
Scaled to 3:1
Printed on my X1C
More details on my blog
did you have to change any slicer settings for the print in place blade? I keep having it either fuse or Z offset issues on some of the inner portions of the blade.
Printer used Bambu Lab Carbon X1 with AMS
Filament used Generic PLA (White, Silver, Black and Red)
Model link Drone from Oblivion (2013) by chinkel - Thingiverse
Print settings Standard Bambu Studio settings
Print time 7 hours
Colored the faceplate in Bambu Studio and added the number on it too.
Hi
Sharing my small but growing collection. From the left. MK2, MK3, MK5 (Bought not made), MK46, MK85 (needs the electronics fitting. I am using the crash works code with Arduino Nanos.
All made with the X1C and AMS.
Regards
Josh
My wife and I recently returned from a small-ship cruise into the Arctic, where we reached the pack ice limit and saw nine polar bears, including one on the pack ice that walked up to the ship! My wife asked if I could make a pin to commemorate this, with a polar bear. I’m no artist but found this coaster which served as a great start.
In Tinkercad I removed the paw print. Then in Bambu Studio I added a layer of blue just below the surface. Created the curved text, converted to STL and inserted it. “Painted” the bear, but when I print, I let it print two 0.1 layers of white (actually a “cream” white, but it looks the same as the other white) before changing to yellow. It was printed face-down on a Wham Bam PEX sheet to get a glossy surface and reduced in size to 22x3mm. It took me six or seven tries to get it the way I wanted (and that my wife was happy with!)
The back (top as it prints) has a 0.5mm recess for a clutch pin plate that I glued in place. 0.2mm nozzle, X1C with AMS.
An absolute newbie before getting the P1P in July.
Since then I designed, modeled and printed several cool items.
#1 - Canada Map Puzzle with Snap-on Hinged Case (240 x 240 mm)
- PLA
- Do not have an AMS, so the first and only print was a random combination of left-over filaments, manually spliced in the extruder.
- For the case - 50 mm/s speed, due to the Silver PLA being a pretentious filament.
- 0.2 mm layer
Heart Strings Artwork by 3DPrintBunny | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Bambu X1C, Atomic Golden Blood Diamond PLA, Polymaker PolyLite Galaxy Dark Blue PLA
Hi All,
Inspired by the photos above I printed this. Pug, waiting in the rain. Made it for my daughter who is off to Uni cause she will miss our Pugs. She loves it. Not my model.
Josh
And this one is for me My wife keeps asking “Why?” I just blame the printer making it too easy so “Why not”.
Josh
Got almost unbelievable results on a TPU print today as never before. Fell in love with flow calibration once again. Just a littel adjustment of the profile geomentry and it will work but then with two against one sealing lips. Extremely happy that brittle seals can now be replaced quickly (without a long search, just 10-20 minutes of drawing work…).
Nice, I can think of a couple places I could use something similar.
What did you use for support material?
As Supportmatirial i use TPU shore 98A as well - So everything on the external feed without AMS. I set the printer speed down to 150mm/s on the outside and inside walls (which I anyway still do a lot). So I was very surprised that I could remove the TPU as a support very easy. I chose wall thickness of 0.8mm with a nozzle of 0.4mm.
The stiffening circled in red still has to come out, otherwise it’s very difficult to get it into the joint. For everything else - first drawing, first print and goal… Calculate with strings at the beginning and end, so it must be shortened by at least 1-2 cm (0.5 to 1 inch) in total length.