I have an H2C running in the garage, it can’t come in the house. I’m getting a lot of pauses printing PLA and PETG due to the chamber temp exceeding 43*c. I have the door open an the lid off. Any suggestions to help cooling it? Its in the 90’s F outside.
An enclosure/tent with a portable/small air conditioner?
That or switch to a filament that needs the heat like ASA/ABS.
Grab one of those cold/sticky plates (Darkmoon ice, cryogrip frostbite, etc.) and run cooler bed temps. With your ambient temp as high as it is you might be able to run no bed heat for pla.
I was fortunate enough to save a profile with the “air filtration enhancement” option enabled before they got rid of it. It basically allows you to control the chamber exhaust fan and disables the chamber temp warnings. This comes in handy for PETG since I run a 42-45°c chamber temp.
I wonder if I could share a json file of my printer profile with others so they can get this setting back?
My H2S handles the high temp stuff. The two being next to each other probably doesn’t help.
I have a Cryogrip frostbite on it. What temp can I run the bed at with it and PETG? I’ve been using the supertac cool profile for the plate, it defaults to 70c.
If you can minimize cooling you should be able to go as low as 50°, maybe lower or even none for smaller prints, but keep an eye on warping.
I dropped the heatbed down to 60c and its printing again, chamber temp is still high at 40c but we will see if we get warpage.
On another note, printing on a glacier plate with ASA and its peeled off a bit of the surface coating. Did I do something wrong? Heatbed was set to 110c, I’ve had sticking issues at 100. Glue was layed down prior to the print, elmers glue stick.
40°c shouldn’t allow it to warp. 40°-45° is the sweet spot for PETG. I routinely print petg in this range specifically to avoid warping.
As for the plate, it’s likely a manufacturer defect that finally came to light. Biqu’s QC isn’t the greatest. The glacier was meant to print engineering materials so printing Asa on it at 110° shouldn’t have damaged it.
K, I’ll send them an email and see what they say. Thanks all.
Have you tried pointing an external fan at it, something that can move significant air? Not sure if pointing one into the chamber would affect prints, but perhaps just pointed at the side of the printer to help draw away extra heat… that chamber fan can only move so much.
Otherwise a cooled chamber/tent like Jon suggested… “they” sell these piezo coolers these days that can be quite compact and require no drainage, though I’ve never used one nor know the efficiency/cost of running one.
FWIW, the Super Tack Pro (only “tack” one available for H2C) calls for slightly lower temperatures than the old “SuperTack” plate in the current slicer version (60°C for PETG). I don’t know why they haven’t added a new plate type with its own settings. Though I found a higher (65-70) temperature is required at least for the first layer to make it stick with PETG HF. I’m not sure about no heat at all, and I haven’t printed PLA on it at all (TICR). Note however that I have somewhat of an opposite problem in my setup, with a strong A/C unit blowing right by the printer, so if anything my chamber temps tend to be on the low side.
glacier plate with ASA
Just broke in my Glacier with some ASA prints over the last couple days, though it was for some smaller parts (not much first layer surface area). I did have to add a small brim to a part that had only a narrow 2-wall first layer (same issue with my DM Satin plate). But no removal issues at all, no marks on the plate (unlike the Satin), and also no glue. I used 100°C.
-Max
I’ve been running a high cfm shop fan out of the garage to try and keep the temps down, but its done very little. I don’t want to aim it at the printer in fear of blowing contaminates into it. Right now, dropping the plate temp seems to be working, but not at the peak of summer heat in FL yet. The humidity keeps me running the AMS heaters almost constantly. They dont have to work to hard though since the AMS units read 105f internal temp, but I’m lucky to get to 20% relative humidity.
Does pulling hot air out of the garage pull in cooler air somehow, eg. from attached A/C’d house? Not sure what that would do otherwise. If not pointed at the printer, it could be pointed away from it (with printer behind the fan) and still draw air around the printer enclosure, cooling that. There could still be “contaminants” moving around of course, stirred up by the added airflow, just not as direct as forcing them into the printer by blowing at it. 
-Max
The garage runs 5-10F over outside temp. I figure any air exchange is good at that point. I dont have an AC or anything to vent to it. The fan sits behind the printers, but not butted up to them. I’m just trying to get some circulation to help, but dropping the bed temp has helped a lot. Its holding at around 40c now.
fix the underlying problem. insulate your garage