Need to start using PLA+ as i want the ease of PLA printing, but the Strength of something approaching PETG.
DO NOT want to use PETG hence my question.
Found SUNLU PLA+ to give good Tensile Strength, and a good colour palette, so my question is…
Can someone give me some good settings to use Sunlu PLA+ please (Temps and Speed and Cooling) etc
VMT
Wasp056
I have been running IIID PLA+ with the stock generic PLA settings @ 230 degrees. It’s been working pretty well for me.
Hi and Welcome!
As @senator.smiles says, the generic settings for PLA usually work well.
I’ve used the SUNLU PLA+, but not on my X1C yet, it’s nice stuff.
You might also look into getting OrcaSlicer to replace Bambu Studio. They’re like 95% the same, but OrcaSlicer adds a bunch of Calibrations and some advanced settings (which are optional but nice to have for certain projects).
BL Studio actually has code from SoftFever the person who does OrcaSlicer, BL and he do a lot of sharing.
I did a long PSA about it for new people in the Bambu world here (Click Blue Link):
You might take 5 mins and give it a read. Be sure to follow the Blue Links, they take you to where you can see the Calibrations.
It has things like two click Temp Towers and Flow Rate tests to let you dial in your exact filament’s settings for perfect results, something that’s suggested for each filament. Fortunately you only have to do it once and save the settings for one click use later. 
BTW- What are you planning for that filament?
Thank you for your reply, and i will have a look at OrcaSlicer. I am doing a project making a Control box, and are having this issue on the back and side of the box, see attached Pics, and would like to know what is the likely cause of this?
So would like to ensure setup is correct.
Many Thanks, have it set at that currently buy am having print issues
I mainly use Esun & Sunlu PLA+, they both work great and can go up to 35mm³/s reliably.
From your pictures, you seems to have a lot of warping, you should probably disable auxiliary fan for this print.
About those blobs, that’s very strange, make sure to set “seams” as aligned (but that’s not the problem here) and set a correct PA value (dont use printer autocalibration, set it manually either using Orca slicer or Gcode in bambustudio on filament start gcode), something near 0.02 should work, not the best but you should be good enought.
My pleasure! You’ll find it looks and feels the same, just has more choices.
I suspect that if you dial in the settings for the filament most of this will vanish.
There’s a bunch of helpful people here if you need guidance, I’ll try and check back later too.
Edit - look there’s one now! 
@DzzD
Appreciate everyone’s time for their replies.
DzzD… Newb here, and downloaded OrcaSlicer (It looks same as Bambu, but sure it is not. Will have to investigate more).
What do you mean ‘Set a Correct PA value’ and what is the Gcode example you have shown for Linear advance?
Again HUGE thanks for the swift replies, like to get to the bottom of these marks as the other half of the box when printed does not have these marks at all??? Strange it is…
Thanks again, any help is always welcome for this noob!
PA stand for Pressure Advance, you may also sometime heard of Linear Advance, both achieve the same goal
It is a process to compensate for the non linearity of extrusion, you can think of it like when you push a fluid in a tube, it will reach the output with some seconds later depending on how the fluid react to pressure and fluid will continue to output even after you stop pushing onto the input of the tube.
PA is made to compensate this phase shift.
Same here. I have a mixture of PLA and PLA + and just use the stock PLA setting. Flawless prints so far.
Just a thought. Although PLA is not as hydrophilic as, let’s say, nylon, soluble water in the filament may present as bubbles during heating and extrusion! This may be your problem.
You may want to try drying your filament (for PSA, 50 degrees C for 6 hrs) and storing with a desiccant for a day or two. Try printing again with the same settings and see if you get better surface quality.
Good luck!
Stu
I use esun pla+ settings just fine
230? WOW. I run all my sunlu and pokymaker pla at 210. I get great prints. Easier on the printer. Less chance of leakage. Less chance of heat creep. I thought standard was 220?
I’ve been running sunlu pla+ on esun pla+ settings via an A1 for a few months now for the same reasons and I’ve had not 1 issue AT all, I’m loving it!! I’m using a new smooth hot plate from bambu and I pop another 5° on the esun std bed settings which takes it to 70° I have know reason why coz I have absolutely no idea about what I’m doing but what I do know is I can’t find any flaws in the products I print which is fine by me, coz with bambu pla, petg I had some issues but this sunlu, 
yeah I’m in I’ve ordered another 4 rolls, but like i say I know nothing but what my eye sees
