Thanks but those seem to be not super cheap. many $$
The glass transition temperature (Tg) for ASA (Acrylonitrile-Styrene-Acrylate) typically ranges from 95°C to 106°C
So it definitely should do something at 200°C.
240°C is the printing temperature.
Clog is cleared! Ended up buying a plastic welding iron from Harbor Freight to finally heat up the hotend enough it would come out. (has a wide wedge shaped tip to apply heat)
Unfortunately broke a COUPLE things in the disassembly process so i have some parts on order… .Thank fully Bambu Labs sells all the parts .
Filament run out sensor, nozzle cam, eddy current, hotend heating assembly (latch). Part cooling fan duct is a bit toasty so that will be replaced as well. All in all, about $160/parts… .
Lesson learned… don’t print ASA 
I print ASA almost every day 
I printed tons of ASA in the few weeks I had my H2S running. This time I printed something from the handy app. Changed filaments to ASA, saw the chamber vent open, didn’t think anything of it… went to sleep, woke up to nightmare.
Normally I use bambu studio, set the chamber to warm up for a while before printing ASA and had no issues…
Mistakes were made.
I think the problem is the Handy app itself. Yesterday I kicked off an ASA print from the Bambu Handy app to my H2S, and it did a pretty similar thing. I don’t think it’s heating the bed/chamber enough or something because if I print the exact same model from Studio, it works fine every single time.
Luckily the AI caught it before it got TOO bad but I did have to heat everything up and slowly and carefully pull it around the heater and thermistor wires.
From what I understand (never printed asa), but all I use is ABS and PETG-CF), the temps are very similar. Try an ABS profile. I use the stock Bambu one on all my ABS now. The only thing is lacking is the bed temp. Try and start it up from Handy, then, pause it. Sounds crazy, but you want to see what it does. Pause it and let it sit for a little. You can even move the axis’ while paused.
I would pause it every chance I got honestly… One thing, that I did do is print 45 degree aux fan deflectors… I recently had one blob, first one I’ve ever had. I just paused it, lowered the bed(the print was ruined anyhow), heated the hotend up, pulled the filament back, then heated to 300. Left it for a few minutes, came back(this happened while I was at work), and the blob had fallen off. And onto the bed. The was still some on the hotend. Turned it up another 10C(figured why not, experiment at this point), left it for 15 minutes I think it was, other piece fell off. Pulled it back down to zero, told my wife, to do me a favor and throw that mess away, and left it till I got home.
When I got home, I immediately heated it up to 310C again, grabbed some water( I knew this was going to take a few), went upstairs, grabbed the brass and steel bristle brushes, and at that point, it was pretty liquidized, so I just brushed it off. Turned it off, used a weeding tool to open the clip, and some tweezers to remove the hotend. Brushed it off, done… Let it all cool down, and it’s been fine since…
Kevin, how did you make out? It looks like you ducts may be melted (not a part that can be ordered). I need just the duct(s) for the part cooler. Do I need the entire hot end?
If you have an H2S, this is what you want. Click on the second image, not the first.
If you have an H2C/D, go with what @Steve_KA5YFC said.
This is an H2S thread, so I’d assume they want H2S parts.
That’s for the H2C/D only.
Yeah, I realized that it was for the C/D but I couldn’t find the thread again until you commented. My bad. Deleted.
Thank you. When I had visited there, the slide showing the sled-look to confirm the part was not showing for me.