Started a print from the Bambu Handy app last night and woke up to this nightmare of a mess. Its ASA, now getting a nozzle temp error so I can’t heat up the nozzle to melt this mess.
Heat your soldering iron to a temp that will melt the filament in your blob and not burn it, dig at it until you find the nozzle’s metal. Make yourself a cup of tea, touch your soldering iron tip to the nozzle for minutes. Start pulling off what melts.
Your thermister and/or heater core wires may have broke, but you wont know till you tear it down.
If you or your significant other own a blow dryer, you can use that to soften up the plastic so you can try and remove it.
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Thanks, I don’t have a soldering iron here but I ordered a small heat gun … should be here tomorrow. Worried a bit about smelly ASA filament fumes.
Will that get hot enough to soften ASA? Thought it was pretty temp resistant?
Heat guns can work, but be aware that they are a shotgun of heat and you need to be aiming carefully. Everything that isn’t the nozzle or heatbrake should not be exposed to extreme heat. That part fan shroud is really close to your blob, and will likely get destroyed by heat gun by the time ASA softens.
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Ok, i needed to order a PINECIL (soldering iron thing anyway)
Acetone can dissolve ASA. It needs time, but could help to get rid of it.
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Now I don’t know this for certain, but Id guess that if we use acetone vapors to melt, smooth, and weld ABS also, it would be real prudent to put up a box fan on high and a window open to make sure those vapors don’t spend too long in the other plastic that’s part of the chamber … I don’t have a h2s but it looks like mostly injection molded ABS-GF to me?
Idk I think acetone is spooky here but otherwise a good idea
Acetone dissolves ASA and ABS also. So caution is definitely required!
Something else about acetone and other similar vapors is they are heavier than air and collect at floor level creating a flammability/explosion hazard.
In a chemistry lab they would be handled in a fume hood that collects all vapors and exhausts them but if doimg much with acetone indoors and without a proper hood, keep the fact in mind that vapors can accumulate and you may never know unless you bend down or something ignites them.
Acetone dissolves ABS and ASA. I had more stuck to an Ultimaker 2. The entire print head was enclosed in a huge blob.
I can’t even get close to the hotend to pull it off. Heatgun/soldering iron … ASA is a pain
Any hope that I can convince bambu labs to send me the entire " H2 Series Tool Head with X-Axis Assembly"?
Really don’t want to spend $320 to fix my printer.
I have tried heat gun and soldering iron and can’t get close to removing the clog.
I removed the part cooling duct, nozzle camera and such but still can’t get the ASA filament clog cleared .
If you can disassemble it enough to drop the nozzle+blob completely out of the machine, you can then work on removing the ASA just on a workbench. In which case acetone OR lots of heat could be back on the menu. (acetone is flammable - dont be a statistic) Or a dremel lol. Definitely that second cup of tea.
I dont think they’ll give you a new full toolhead+carriage, all the damage is on the bottom half and all those things are very component-replacable. Thats what they might send you.
Heat a blade with a torch and cut into it. The soldering iron should work though. Melt the tip of it as deep into the blob as possible and then just wait until the heat has transferred all the way through the filament. It may take a while. Keep the iron in place, while picking at the plastic.
Or maybe something like this hot knife might work.
This multipurpose hot knife set from Honoson comes with 14 blades and a metal stand for safe, controlled cutting and carving. You don’t want to miss it!
Sadly ASA doesnt really melt until like 240C, looks like the knife maxes out at 200C
I cant get to the point i can release the hotend is the problem. its THICK.
You can also use a sonic knife like the one from Hozo Design, that will for sure cut any plastic you need. It’s also good to trim parts after print too.