The advice I’ve seen for gluing parts together is to use superglue in one form or another. Whilst I’ve found this works in some cases, in others it does not.
An example is when I split a long thin strip (cross section 5 x 30) and use connectors to locate the two parts. It seems difficult or impossible to reliable get a small enough gap between the two parts for superglue to cure. I’ve experimented a bit with the tolerences, but even at 0.2mm (and or filling down the tops of the plugs) it doesn’t seem to quite fit. I’m loathe to make the width tolerence too large or the parts will misalign.
I should add that I’ve just been told off by my wife for using smelly glue (araldite - I hate it also), so any solution would need to be low odour…
Iain
Superglue typically needs moisture to cure. That is not available in the tiny gaps of fresh prints. However, you can soak your connectors in warm water for a day, towel them off and then the superglue has a reservoir of moisture in place.
But make sure that no water splashes remain on the connectors. Superglue will cure instantly there, leading to a solid film on top of still uncured superglue.
Also, there are particular superglues that are formulated for this kind of problem. I like the “Arka Kraftprotz 3D Druck” Superglue.
PS: As for the smell, well, adhesives use chemical reactions, so… not much that can be done about that besides doing it outsides or next to an open window.
Superglue does cure faster in the presence of water. That’s typically what solidifies an old open bottle of CA, humidity gets in and starts to work on the glue’s polymer chains. But even with high moisture levels it won’t cure instantly if it’s not being spread/compressed in a thin layer. Cyanoacrylate isn’t a good “gap filling” adhesive.
A trick that works well is to mix some powdery material in with the CA. Baking Soda works for this. It provides a “scaffold” for the CA and produces stronger joints in situations where there are large gaps.
Solvents can have the same problem if the parts don’t mate reasonably “flush”. But solvents provide the strongest bond, so some gaps might not matter that much. And you get a little “squish” with the parts because the plastic has softened up from the solvent.
And where solvents won’t do the job, there is always the tried-and-true old-time standby of 5 minute Epoxy.
You are aware that he first version of 3d printing at the hobby level is making a mold, powder in some baking soda, then superglue layer by layer you are making a very durable plastic.
I have made a LOT of field expedient solutions with this process,
If ya have a shaker (like salt shaker) lil arm n hammer and a squezee of superglue, you have the perfect solution to your problem.
Think that is cool, did you know it was invented as a solution to field combat injuries with torn arterial events, good medic with a tube of superglue was the first battlefield solution to heavy bleeders.
Now we have quick clot and tampons, hey don’t judge, they are amazing for filling in bullet tracks…
