Do we have any idea when the SuperTack plate will be available for the h2d?
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I’m hoping they made a Supertack v2 that’s more like the other polyurea plates on the market. My Darkmoon ICE plates have been way more reliable. I have a 50% failure rate on the supertack plate.
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Was that at lower temps or regular temps? I had a Sliceworx sheet for my X1c that was AMAZING. I assumed it was basically the same as the Supertack. I always ran it at normal temps though.
Lower temps technically. I run pla at 40 and PETG at 60 for larger prints and 30 for pla on smaller stuff. The supertack is definitely different. I’m not sure how to explain it though, it’s just got a different type of coating on it. I want to say the supertack is polyurethane while all the other plates are polyurea. They’re similar, but different.
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Been rocking the CryoGrip frostbite and I have forgotten what it is like to lose adhesion. That would be a killer for H2D.
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There are two cool plates available right now, no need to wait for frostbite/supertack.
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I’m also eagerly awaiting the SuperTack.
I’ll try to explain my assessment of bed adhesion objectively and independently of the current thread: What to do about the H2D heated bed temperature uniformity problem?
Roughly speaking, I’m a bit disappointed with the bed adhesion.
Be it the Textured PEI, the Smooth PEI, or the BIQU Gacier.
I only use the Textured PEI for TPU now.
Large-scale prints on the Smooth PEI and the BIQU Gacier held up, but at the end of the print, I was able to remove the models from the plate far too easily.
Unfortunately, I had no luck with two smaller prints (although the AI ​​did trigger).
Misprint 1:
Misprint 2:
For this print I would have chosen the SuperTack.
Just checking if there’s been any news on this front. I’ve got the superTack for my P1S and it’d be amazing to have a fully supported option for the H2 series.
Current SuperTack I’ve found loses significant amount of grip permanently the 1st time you rinse it with mere dishsoap and water, and this I was able to reproduce again from a brand new never used spare one. It will print non-challenging prints, but challenging geometries, esp. with reduced bottom surfaces, and PETG-HF, the observable difference can be stark.
On a plate I’ve washed many times, it even managed to get PLA-CF to warp (reduced bottom surface), something I previously thought to have been impossible. Never applied anything other than soap and water to it.
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I am using SuperTack with my A1 since a lot of time now and I find it very reliable with PLA and the energy saving is signficant. Never washed it yet. So I would be so glad to get the same with my H2D, I was ready to order one since the launch and am puzzled by the fact they did not release one yet.
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Why wait for it when the Kdavi and Frostbite plates are available? Kdavi has been great for PLA, PETG as well as ABS/ASA. They are probably the OEM manufacturer for Bambu and BTT. Why not go direct to the source instead of waiting for bambu to release a version with their name on it?
My Frostbite plate on the H2D DEFINITELY does not have the insane adhesion that my supertac plates have. I literally have to sometimes rip parts off my supertac. I can bend it like crazy sometimes and tge part never comes off. The Frostbite? I can bend a little and the part usually comes off. I only have 1 Frostbite plate though and that has been my experience with it. I have 4 Supertac plates and as long as I give it extra heat using the pei textured plate setting i get insane adhesion.
Plus the Supertac has a matte texture. It is very different from the Frostbite which has a shiny glossy result.
Just hoping for an officially supported supertack plate to make things like using the slicer a little bit easier. Maybe it’s not necessary with the heat-controlled interior?
I’m a bit more than half-way through a 31 hour print, and so far my Sunlu HS-PETG is sticking well to my brand new Frostbite Pro H2D plate:
I’m new to it, so I hope I’m not repeating old news, but I notice people are referring only to their “Frostbite” plate, not their “Frostbite Pro” plate. Maybe this is just shorthand, but if not, be aware that the pro plate is alleged to have better adhesion and be more resilient than its non-pro predecessor.
As suggested by the flyer that came with it, I’m also running mine at 75C for improved adhesion. I’m pretty sure higher hotend temperature on the first layer also helps strengthen the adhesion.
I remember trying superTac on a couple occasions on various printers before the X1C was released, and I would agree that it offers very high adhesion, but back then, at least in my case, it was actually too much adhesion, where removing the print from the SuperTac might well destroy the build plate, and the print itself. On the other hand, like many things, maybe SuperTac has also improved and is now much better than it used to be. Is it? I can’t say because I never had a reason to try again.
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If there is a non-pro version that is news to me. As far as I know there is no non-pro. All they have on the official website is Cryogrip Pro plates. Glacier and Frostbite versions.
The Bambu Lab Supertac having too much adhesion that sometimes breaks the part or nearly pulls off the plate surface is exactly what I am looking for. I have a need to print parts as small as 5mm poles with no brim as well as large flat parts with no chance of warping. The Frostbite will do most of the time but not as much as the Supertac. I’ve had small parts fail on the Frostbite that never fail on the Supertac. I love to have to ripp the part off the plate. It is definitely not for everybody but for someone like me that prints miniatures in 1/12 scale the Supertac pays for itself.
Example, I print these tiny bottles and jugs with removable wood pla cork. The bottles are translucent with glow in the dark colors inside for the liquid. I also print lots of books in parts.
I bought the cryonix and i liked i printed several things in pla and stick VERY well and its cheap.
The finish similar to supertack, no glossy like frostbyte. I have the frostbyte too and is shiny finish and polished, the figures i make slip i hate it xD.
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I take it back: if you’ve found a surface you’re happy with, why change? I can see the advantages of sticking with it, since you’re already calibrated around it.
+1 for Fysytec CryoNix plate. It’s the closest plate to Supertac you can buy now. Not completely the same as Supertac (Supertac soft surface vs Cryonix hard), but much closer than Frostbite and other hard plates with shiny and rough textures. CryoNix gives the same very smooth, matte surface as Supertac. Still hope for Supertac for H2D. Supertac is a best plate for PLA that works wonders for me in my X1Cs/P1Ss WITHOUT any cleaning for year of work…
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That is good to hear. I was just going to wait for the Supertack but maybe I should try the Fysec.
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