The current nightly build of OrcaSlicer 2.3.1-dev includes the Cool Plate(SuperTack) in the bed type list. I’ve not yet encountered any bugs in this beta version.
LAN-only mode works well, much better than Studio, which requires me to enter the access code TWICE every time I want to connect. OrcaSlicer only needed the code once, and remembers the printer between sessions.
When I first got the supertack it worked really well but later on I have been wondering the same as the thread starter. But Im going to try some of the suggestions I read here. I knew about dawn and whats new is someone suggested warmer water. Someone suggested rinse only until the soap is gone. And someone mentioned a lower bed temp.
Problem has been fixed. Documented it on my Channel.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
But a special thanks to KRELLBOY for putting me on the right track!
Thanks for the update!
Hi All, my first post here. I am having this exact issue and I was wondering what turning on the build plate recognition actually does?
I have a P1S so that is not an option for me, so I was wondering if build plate recognition changed something that I may also be able to change, albeit manually (z-offset for instance).
I have also done all of the basics, dry filament, clean plate (dishsoap and warm water), calibrated for the filament, cleaned the nozzle etc.
I also get perfect adhesion on the calibration prints, but not on a real print.
Exact same settings (apart from bed temp) printing on the PEI smooth plate seems to work fine.
Thanks in advance to the community, I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
Bed plate temperatures and z-offset vary by plate type, but those are set in the same way for both P and X series printers in the filament profiles.
Build plate recognition on the X1C just keeps you from slicing for one plate and then trying to print with another. If you do make a mistake and the code read from the plate does not match the plate specified in the sliced g-code, or there is no plate detected on the bed, it stops the print, and you can then cancel the print or change the plate. Plate detection does not change any settings. In fact, it only takes place after a print has a begun.
I think that a P1 series printer will just go ahead and print, regardless if the plate is right, wrong or missing.
Thanks mate, I appreciate the response. Interesting that the plate recognition appears to have fixed the issue for OP, I was just hoping I may be able to leverage the same fix manually, but I guess the SuperTack plate is just not to be.
it reads the barcode on the buildplate and compare it to that which you selected in the slicer.