Supertack will not stick no matter what

Bambu Lab X1 Series Bambu Lab X1C
1

So i ended up upgrading from old Orca Slicer to be able to use the Supertack plate.

I previously were able to print perfect prints with Engineering plates with glue, Tex PEI, Cool plates with glue

But after I got the Supertack, i just can’t get any PRINTS to stick!
Don’t get me wrong, I am perfectly able to print CALIBRATION PRINT MODELS, anywere on the supertack, but as soon as I try to print a model, it just refuse to stick properly, and behaves like it is clogged, or like there are fingerprints, when there is not.

I wash the supertack in soap water, make sure no fingerprints, even tried isopropanol on it to be sure.

The problem affects both PETG and PLA, and then filament i have already perfectly calibrated the K-values and Flow-values for.

I have done perfect cold pulls of brand new nozzles, I have tried 0.2 nozzles, and 0.4 nozzles and same problem appear on both.

I have tested with both Bambu Studio as well as Orca Slicer, and the same problem happens when i print from both.
Calibrations work perfectly, but real prints, fail for the exact same filaments.

Settings that the supertack prints out fine in calibration, just does not stick for real prints.

Below is a screenshot of supertack result versus Engineering plate with gluestick results.

And yes, the filament has been properly dryed for 24 hours and is at less than 10% moisture.
PETG, perfectly dryed and calibrated, 260 degrees calibrated, 70 deg bed on both engineering and supertack

supertack-no-stick
supertack-no-stick1920×469 43.7 KB

I am at a loss now, as to why i can calibrate using Supertack, but no chance i can PRINT with it.

When I initiate real prints, the test lines go down perfectly, and then after the last line it is almost like it adjust z-height so filament barely touch the plate.

HELP?

*PS: Anyone here got Supertack, X1c and IS able to print on this buildplate, and can share their standard 0.2 and 0.4 nozzle machine codes so i can compare? Totally standard nozzle configurations, no changes. *

*That way I can inspect the gcodes for differences. *

Because if this was a problem with the hardware, it should not be able to print the calibrations either.

2

That is interesting topic, I was about to buy super tack, because I thought first layer sticking properly. Will monitor it

3

that is the thing…it sticks brilliantly as long as I print testpatterns. Anything else refuses to stick…

4

you probably already know this but what type of soap did you use? if it isnt the cheapest crappiest type of dish soap then you may be unintentionally depositing additional oil to the surface.

how is your hotend? is it third party? is it the one that came with the machine? has it been installed correctly? not to say that you did it wrong but over time things can loosen a little. is the supertack plate thicker or thinner than the official plate? if so then even being off by a little bit can cause all sorts of wacky issues; particularly with calibration and bed-leveling since most test prints always print in the exact middle and so any issues on the outer areas of the build plate can sometimes be unintentionally masked by that and cause you to wonder why test builds work but nothing else does.

id go through, calibrate everything, relubricate anything that can be lubricated and triple-check that the hotend/nozzle is on there properly along with all its bits, etc. just set aside a couple hours and WITHOUT PRINTING ANYTHING go down the list Bambu Lab X1 Maintenance Recommendation | Bambu Lab Wiki here.

this isn’t just to make you suffer nor is it because i doubt you; its because if you end up filing a support ticket then they’re gonna make you go through it all anyway either way so you might as well just slog through it now.

how old is the filament? filament that is particularly old will have absorbed enough water that it can be physically changed and become increasingly more difficult to print even with drying.

try to remember that coincidences do in fact happen and so its possible that this has nothing to do with the plate and something else might’ve happened simultaneously.

2 Likes
5

original hotends, brand new, as i wrote, declogged, and cleansed. filamend dried to less than 10% moisture, filament has been perfectly calibrated.

ALL CALIBRATION PRINTS WORK FLAWLESSLY

This is not about a dirty buildplate, since the exact same buildplate prints the calibration patterns flawlessly.

6

Calibration prints use the same filament - so there’s no reason to think a calibration print would stick and another print wouldn’t. If the temperatures are different for the calibration prints from your real prints - set your real prints to the same temps.

It’s not as though the build plate goes, “Oh, this isn’t a calibration print so let’s get less grippy.”

I would probably try higher temps for the bed, and lower temps, and see if that helps. I know that the supertack is designed to allow lower bed temps but PETG requires higher temperatures regardless.

Honestly, I’ve been using the smooth PEI plate for PETG with excellent results.

7

My go to plate now for cost effective prototyping with PLA, the plate has got better in holding and releasing over time and I haven’t washed it in months.

My plate settings are:

Bed 30C

Bed release 38C, manually enter the temperature after the print is finished and remember to switch it off after. My plate releases easily via bending it immediately while warm. The thinnest parts which bend with the plate may require a printed scraper.

Trust the lower plate temperature for adhesion, I don’t print PET-G but I’d say try working with the bed to find the lowest temperature for grip and go for a 10C above the print temperature for releasing.

8

Temps of filament is saved in the filament and print at 260 deg (petg) for all and same goes with bed temp 70 deg. It also uses the same calibration settings.
Flowrate and K-values are that of the same of the calibrated tests which were best, saved to the filament settings.

All I can think of is that somewhere in the gcode it specifies to change z-distance or something for real prints, compared to the calibration prints, so that is why i would like someone who have working 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles to share their settings so i can compare it.

I tried that “Textured PEI” plate fix for z-distance, but it did not make a difference

9

mine show perfect petg at 70 deg bed temp, and the standard 45deg for pla is perfect for the calibration tests.
Don’t see why real-print settings should not work with that too.
But yeah, if I can get this buildplate to work with my prints, I’d love it as the surface finish is superb over anything else.

10

Try to cut your model with some 0.04 mm from the bottom. Maybe it’s there some artefacts, which is changing distance of noozle to baseplate. It was happened with me in past. Also, try to reorient your model and slightly shift it from the center.

11

i have printed these models before many times, and i can print them on other buildplates fine, just not this Supertack buildplate, so it is not the models fault.

12

Well, you ask a help, but don’t want to try to test or do something) really, wash it with super cheap Dishwasher soap. Also I recommend to rince it not super long, as soon as you visually see the soap is gone - stop. With warm water. For me, in 90% it fixes all my adhesion problems.

13

I don’t have experience with the supertac plate. But I print PETG exclusively, and used to struggle with bed adhesion. Here is my current standard procedure:

  1. started cleaning the bed with windex instead of soap.
  2. increased the bed temperature by 5 degrees.
  3. cut the speed of the first layer by half.

That’s it. Now all my PETG models stick to all the plates, all the time.

1 Like
14

Windex - is it something for windows, correct? Is it leaving a mark?

15

Yes, blue glass cleaner. No visible residue is left. I scrub lightly with a microfiber cloth, with the bed still on the machine. It’s a 10-second routine.

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16

Thank you, will keep your info for PETG in the future projects!

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17

Entirely turn off plate recognition, “cancel” doesn’t do the same thing.

18

I would, if you had suggestions I had not tried yet. :smiley:

19

Thanks, it’s only the supertack giving me problems currently.

20

It has been off since I started using LAN mode, in other words, since i got the version of Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer that no longer works with cloud.
So build plate detection = off and has been off the whole time.

Although, I do not know, but maybe the calibration tests force buildplate detection and the normal ones prevent it from working. I will try enabling buildplate detection and see if it makes a difference.