this is a bezel for a car. i print it with flat side up, and tryig to use supports inside. but problem, the top flat surface, not printing in any solid fashion, it is very stringy, like it is jut being printed as a raft.
at 1 mm thick for the oval top part, it should be fairly solid, and intact.
but i’m having problems setting up the suppports, and getting a clean inside.
NOTE, this is a bezel for a 1954 Aston Martin interior light. doing this for my cousin,he is restoring it, looks pretty cool. The original bezel melted. i spec’ed it out, printed an earlier model with out the oval dome on it,it fits well, but the bulb smacks against the inside, so recreated it with oval indent, to allow room for the bulb.
any help is appreciated
printing in PETG for better durability in the car
I make a lot of auto parts, for lights I go with an appropriate petg, and any one of the “rapid” or “lite” pla, the chems they are admixing to increase flow rate make it awesome for leaving a perfectly clear release, remember to do texture on the interiors surfaces to assist in light diffusion.
Bridging is awesome in some areas, I have found however with the translucent PETG it inevitabley looks terrible. The other thing I have had luck with is the sharpey trick. get one of the old schoolm metal tube sharpies and pause at the layere where you are going to have interaction, paint the surface with a heavy coat of ink, and it will even get PETG to release.
I have always been a bit of a car enthusiast, never thought my third career would be providing custom fab for impossible to find parts…
The file you provided has no support enabled, you need to.
If the tree or standard support is not suitable, you should consider using support for PETG as an interface layer (only used immediately under the the layer being supported, all other areas use the same filament as the model).
to both of you, thaks for reply. I did have support enabled (maybe not in that file), but did not use different material. after reading further, i will use PLA as support interface material, while the object is in PETG. i will narrow the z-spacing between support and object.
QUESTION - see attached. I am trying to set support, manual, to just be the outer lip, and the inner flat surfaces. It is difficult to define the covered areas. any suggstions on how to select the specific areas i want, with a better tool than that round paint brush in bambu?
thanks
back to the drawing board
i added a raft, then supports, and supposedly selected PLA for the support interface layer, the main object is PETG. BUT, this switdhed to red (pla) at 2nd layer, in raft, then back to petg, i thought it would only be at the support transition layer inside the model.
I’ve done hundreds of designs, but have neve done support-material-change, at an inner surface like i’m trying to do now. i’ve re-attached my model, and if anyone can help with this, to give me ideas on what to do, it is appreciated, for settings, etc.
and, again, thanks to everyone for assistance
nick aston-30-016-res-manual-support.3mf (490.4 KB)
Not sure what the result will be with translucent PETG and the lettering may not be as sharp as printing face up but have you considered printing it at an angle?
Also, I would not use random seams that gives little dots everywhere as there are enough sharp corners that will hide the seams, try aligned or back rather.
i got it, i have PETG material, PLA interface (I used RED pla as test here), zero z-gap. the SURFACES did well,but some of the PLA is stuck to the object. I will re-do it, with 0.16 z-gap, and WHITE PLA as interface material. but the inner SURFACES turned out well enough, it is structurally sound, and the exterior surfaces printed very well, 0.16 resolution. i’ll print it in next couple days, see what happens. again, thanks to everyone.
QUESTION to DaLanMan, what type of texture do you use on inner surface, for light diffusion?
to ALL - HERE is also the car that my cousin has been restoring, a 1954 Aston Martin.
thanks for reply, yes, probably slightly moist, i don’t have a dryer, it’s close enough right now, but i’ve been looking into dryers. but it’s tolerable right now, and dow n the road i can reprint it.
as we speak, i’m printing the one with white PETG/white PLA, to see how it works.
EDIT, i reprinted, z-distance is 0.16. Separates much easier, but inner surface is rougher. but still intact, not separated. so for now, it works, becausae the outer surface turned out very well. I’ll keep experimenting, but it is now a workable insertable part. I may try printing at an angle, see what happens. again, thanks to everyone ! I don’t mind experimenting, but i wanted to get this done, so he had it for his car. now i can experiment more, because i have some other similar inner-surface projects.
