Surface issues on thin cylinrical walls on far side of aux fan

I have a very weird issue with my rather new P1S - printing thin-walled cylinder results in outside surface on the half of the model that’s away from aux fan to have very weird imperfections. As can be seen on attached photos the issue isn’t present on the side closer to aux fan as well it’s also not present from the point the wall thickness exceeds 1.4mm (in my case the issues are present where wall thickness is 1.1mm)

The problem doesn’t happen on my A1 at all using same filament and settings (although the print takes a bit longer)

I don’t think it’s due to slicer settings, the small changes from default 0.2 layer standard settings are changing wall generator to Arachne and top surface pattern to Archimedean chords.

Here are photos of the issue (also showing good and bad side):


BAD side:

“mostly ok” side:

And here’s 3mf file that was used for the print:
PotInsert_SurfaceIssues.3mf (2,1 MB)

That is puzzling indeed especially since you say the problem doesn’t manifest itself on the A1. My first thought would be temperature. Have you tried printing with the door open and top off? This would be closer to the environment that the A1 is seeing.

Are you using the same exact spool of filament on both? I ask because it could be simply a bad spool. By printing with the exact same spool, we can eliminate a bad spool. It happens.

Have you tried feeding the filament directly outside of the AMS? I doubt this is a factor but it would be wise to rule out filament drag as a culprit.

If none of those things work, two thing that I saw in the profile that might give you some remedy.

  1. Increase the wall loop. Thicker walls may help.


  2. Change the wall order from the default of inner/outer to outer/inner. This combined with increasing the wall loops will set up the outer wall first and can often help with vertical walls.

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This was indeed printed with the door open and the front door open too. I did that because I had bad “fuzzy skin” on a model and thought “huh, maybe the chamber’s too hot”. And that’s despite the room being around 19-20C

Same exact spool. The spool was moved between the two since I needed A1 to do multicolor with small spools that don’t fit between rollers in the AMS but work fine on AMS Lite.

Unfortunately no - I haven’t even mounted external spool holder on my P1S :frowning:

That MIGHT work, but the problem doesn’t show itself on the section you have highlighted - that’s the “top” section on the images that’s actually mostly fine… And I think it wouldn’t have helped on the thin section that’s 1.1mm thick. There would be the same number of walls there, wouldn’t it?

On a side note here - I’ve printed a very small item that had 2 walls and on the far side of aux fan it was “drooping” so I thought about benchy hull line and increased both infill and wall count (from 2 to 3) and it printed perfect…

I’ll try that with next test print. Btw - would it be able to help with fuzzy skin on overhangs on round items? The item I’ve mentioned couple paragraphs above printed weird fuzzy on overhangs but on A1 again it was “perfect”

Oh! One thing I’ve failed to mention - I installed this mod:

because one of my “paper” series models was getting lifted off of bed despite plate being spotless and many people cited aux fan as the root of evil where it comes to bed adhesion… Could that have caused issues on far side of the aux fan?

Two things. Removing the mod will help with your diagnosis. That will at least bring you back to a “factory state”. Given that air flow and temps go and in hand, this would be the first place I would looke.

Second item.

The increased walls are there for illustration, the increase wall loops will also affect the top given that this is a curved object.

Thanks! Removed the mod but will keep it at hand in case it’s necessary.

Yes I understand that - what I meant is that despite setting wall loops to “4” or any bigger number, the actual section where the problem shows itself is still just 2 walls thick:

OK. That!!! Is a new one. I’ve never seen this before. I tried to duplicate what you show on screen. It would help if you increased the size of the screen grab to include the layer height. However, even without that I was able to determine that the model has no inner walls below a certain height. Or at least that’s what the slicer is reporting. See for yourself as I toggle the outer wall.
orca-slicer_OfD0Jarxjq

This is confirmed by layer height tool also.

I cannot explain why it is doing this and at this point, if it were my print, I’d be cutting it open to see exactly what was extruded. But this should not be happening.

This is only a theory so I have no way of verifying it. However, what if the firmware in the A1 is not discriminating for thin walls but the firmware in the P1S is? If I were to hazard a guess, based on a renewed look at the photos now that I’ve discovered this inner wall missing. Take a look at the later height screengrab rendering and now look again at your model. Could it be that your P1S is simply ignoring the inner walls? The slicer suggests so.

Just for scientific purposes, have you tried cutting the two physical models, the A1 and the P1S, along a vertical cross-section to examine how they were actually printed? You may have discovered a bug in the firmware.

Is this model your design? If so, you may want to try to increase the wall thickness in CAD and see if the result changes.

BTW: Just for shits and giggles. I tried to decrease the X-Y hole compensation which would create a thicker wall and Viola!!! The inner walls reappear. I used -2mm for dramatic affect but you get the idea.

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Yes, It’s my model. I’ve even realized an error in the model’s design - the wall should be 1.4mm thick instead of 1.1. Making the wall 1.4mm thick makes inner wall appear.

I haven’t and TBH those lines are hidden since that’s not a cosmetic piece… And both the A1 and P1 printed ones are in their appropriate locations working as intended :wink:

But I might be tempted to try to make something less filament intensive… Also - since walls are razor thin would that also mean that P1 wouldn’t be appropriate for vase mode prints? That wouldn’t seem right…

:thinking:
Would you suggest doing some tests/calibrations to rule out any mechanical/filament issues with my printer and filament? I mean - the benchy printed on P1S printed VERY nicely and by my layman’s eyes even better than my A1, but maybe something changed in those… uh… 15h of print time 0.o? (side note: my A1 is nearing 500h)

That’s totally your call but I would say that you would be doing the community a favor by posting a side by side between the A1 and the P1 series.

Here’s a thought. So as not to waste too much filament, try this test.

  1. Create a simple primitive, let’s use cylinder in this case.
  • Set the top layer to 0 and the infill to zero. This will give us a a cup with faux vase mode but unlike vase mode, we can control the wall thickness. Matter of fact, only make the cylinder 10mm high to save filament and make it print quick(3-4 min)

Either way, depending on your level of curiosity and time available, the results on two different printers would yield some very valuable information.

BTW: A 25x25x10mm cylinder with zero infill and zero top layer yields a model that prints in under 2 minutes.

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Thanks! Will try a couple of those over the week and see how it goes using some less-needed filament (but still a good one!)