The two of us are very similar I’m figuring out. I was actually able to return the “Panda Jets” so I didnt waste that money. I don’t even try the “Touch” anymore, its still sitting there though. I believe you’re speaking of the legendary 3dmachiniest, and I have those taps too. My goal is to eventually connect a relay to the stock light port and have it connect the cobb lights to the tap.
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Having read this board something comes to mind. I just watched the vid of it being installed on a P1S.
Is that the new silicone sock standard Slice has been promoting? It’s really not a big deal just looks like it.
With that sock, which I assume is what holds the clip holding the two halves together. What happens on when a blob forms around that and rips off that sock? Not really thinking the sock would be pulled off but there now seems to be a lot of paths for plastic to go when that’s out of the way or it’s molten and moving up. I would assume you tested for this.
If/when it happens it’s approx $44 us to replace heater and thermistor on the P1S, what about the hinge assembly if it’s damaged? What are the lead times for replacement? What are the shipping fees?
I’m not trying to be a jerk but these are things I think about when I buy a hotend. Especially if it costs around $180. That’s “scary I don’t want to replace anything on it” money. I don’t want to lose a part and have to wait over a week and a half for a replacement. Which can happen now with stock.
Manufacturers, when they develop something, they don’t really shout it out before its launched…
Yes, holding nice and tight both together.
Why was the blob in first place?
@Swiss3Dc, no offence mate, but why (after going through the entire thread) do I get the feeling that you’re trying (relatively hard enough) to persuade us into purchasing your (self-advertised) stuff?
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This information is still valid.
It is not recommended to use a higher wattage heater as this can lead to failures and damage to the AP Board, Type-C cable and TH board which is not covered by warranty.
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Here you have it folks, right from the horse’s mouth. Unless you’re ready to spend additionally for refurbishing your printers with new boards (not covered by the warranty), and desperately chasing after Bambu’s customer tech support, to help you out of trouble (of which you got yourself into), then I’d say that it would be best to keep your distance from the aftermarket stuff, at least until it has ben practically demonstrated and well documented that it works and it’s safe.
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I think one has to nuance a little bit. BBL can’t and won’t green light this 60w unit or other changes as they probably have had to certify a definite -electrical- setup for various markets (CE marking for EU, UKCA in UK, and perhaps more speicfic electronics certifications). So anything being done on their printers outside these parameters are understandably on you. A matter of liability. At least that’s my guess.
Now it’s a different thing to assess things purely on technical terms. And someone skilled enough could probably determine if the whole circuitry has margin for that increase.
This is something I’d expect from the outsiders themselves (BTT, Swiss3Dc,…) to try and demonstrate beyond just simply showing that it works.
Now on the hotend, I am quite interested too, and I have DM’d Swiss3Dc a few times and got nice and friendly answers… but we’re a month later and still zero reviews. While I dislike these 30 reviews popping up on release days that read the same script, I believe Gabriel should perhaps look into sending a few around to the sharper reviewers with a known interest on flow etc … but I believe he has released other products before so perhaps it’s all working to plan!
I’ll just wait for reviews and save these 150€+ …
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@Swiss3Dc I’m skeptical. First this is the only picture I could find that was anywhere near a close up on the site. If I missed it could I be directed to it please. The only thing I see actually is renders. There is a video of it being installed in the P1S but not running. There aren’t any product pictures. You don’t have 1 you could take a pic off just to represent it? Asking someone to drop $180 based on some renders and a video is a hard sell.
The only thing holding these together is the sock, you confirmed this. In the BL portion you show one being installed and you remove the sock. Doesn’t look like that much effort was needed to remove it. On a regular nozzle that’s no problem. If a blob happens (and it will) it will do one of two things.
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it will surround the sock and nozzle. The heater block is two halves with space for the nozzle. Am I the only one that sees this as getting filled, seperated by molten filament?
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If the sock get’s torn off (most likely a blob) then the halves split and the two halves are just out there. In theory they’ll be above everthing so shouldn’t hit much unless that plastic now engulfs them. What if they do? Without a clear pic of the hinges I wonder how sturdy they are. This may be a time that a screw is needed.
Has this been tested? It sounds funny but it will happen. Then someones out the nozzle ($180 US) and whatever damage occurs to the tool head if it does end up getting caught on something. That’s not the only thing, not even the biggest thing.
This on the BL hotend page worries me most.
As different brands propose for BambuLab parts between 48 and 60W heaters, by deduction, it would determines the maximum wattage rating the electronics would support.
This should not be “by deduction”. It would be or not. Bambu has stated above it’s not. This statement is either sloppy work, or an outright attempt to get around any damage it may cause. “BTT does it too” won’t help a user that needs to buy another AP board ($50) TH board ($40) or cable ($toolazytolookup) when support tells them it’s not covered.
It is at your own risk to mount higher power heaters than 2x 30W, the risk is to burn your circuit board or other parts, knowing that the main power supply is rated 100W only for the printer.
I think this says it all.
I wouldn’t put this in my P1S if you paid me. I’m the guy that jumps on shiney new things, and this one looks to be a waste of money.
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So are you saying you ordered one?? 
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not yet, but the jury is still out for deliberation…
Note from vids: it’s not just a sock, a sock implies silicon, it’s a metal cover with a silicon sock cover over it - sorry to get pedantic, it’s just not “just a sock”
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Feel free to go for it, if the info provided until now is satisfactory for you.
180 USD, without VAT and shipping costs… and possibly, for most of us, without custom taxes, which add on top of the price…
Personally, I’m staying out and wait until some in-depth tests are conducted by real users and not by some bloody paid-off (wannabe) influencers.
Say👏their👏names👏
lol, loyal Moses got called out by YGK3D today, over FLSUN’s ridiculous contracts that he obviously agreed to:
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Also same, I’ll wait until it’s been tested - and reviewed, I’d love an A1 style quick swap, but I don’t think I need the other benefits, I just thought it was cool.
Yeah I asked them earlier. Just got lazy.
During last week visit to Formnext in Frankfurt, Germany, I had the opportunity to present the Starlex DHB hot-end to Dr. Tao, CEO of BambuLab.
This innovative solution addresses a common issue faced by customers who change nozzle sizes and disconnect/connect heaters without turning off the printer, potentially leading to board malfunctions.
Furthermore, for those who are hesitant to use the MCH Heaters 2x30W event if it works out perfectly without any damage to the printer, a 2x24W version will soon be available, providing an alternative option for users.
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What, if any, feedback did Dr. Tao have?
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He said: Stop claiming your 60W heater will “work perfectly without any damage to the printer.” How can you possibly know that? Did you design our printer?
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And you know that how? Either support your claim with proof, or else be silent and let the man tell his side of the story.
So anyway, More details go a long way at quelling… whatever is going on here… I’m genuinely interested, so I hope we get more details.
Cumbayaaaaaaaaaa