With separate models for the X1c, and P1 series, these looked really nice in videos- tool-less nozzle swaps, but for a hefty price:
Can’t wait to see reviews!
With separate models for the X1c, and P1 series, these looked really nice in videos- tool-less nozzle swaps, but for a hefty price:
Can’t wait to see reviews!
They go all out on providing information don’t they?
So if I understand this, they’re splitting the heater connection to attach more than one heater to the hotend? How do the electronics hold up? Given the printer is designed to provide power for a stock, what 48w? I know the Revo is 60, I also know there are some aftermarket heaters going up higher. Just wonder how the printer holds up with that.
Interesting design.
My questions (almost and literally) exactly… lol
They’re really bad at marketing for sure, I was excited by vids from RMRRF and other recent tradeshows showing off the tool-free swaps, but they have a lot of questions to answer, here’s a vid with a tour of the product, not sure if they’re working officially with Bambu Lab or not, but judging from the site and lack of announcement from BBL, I’m going to say it’s probably not an official collab like the others from E3D and Slice.
Hmmm. Like you I have questions. I’m sure they’re prototypes but that second one wobbled quite a bit with the nozzle out. Those hinges are worrisome. May be more robust in final form but they cause some concern.
Like that connector hanging off the Mini. Nothing says prototype like that. So this nozzle, intriguing. That wasn’t mentioned as an option of the hotends, guess it would be? “A simple insert” makes me wonder what it is.
Printer holds up very well.
We’ve been testing the Starlex DHB hot-end on the P1S for over 6 months with 2x30W heaters, no worries on that, and as you mentioned it, Revo have 60W heaters validated by BBL.
Wobbling is totally normal when the clip and nozzle is removed, both heat blocks are held by the base plate and a spring keeps them open.
What would be the best reliability between a stainless steel plate in one piece held by a stainless steel base plate compare to two tiny M1.4 screws into aluminium heat sink?
Once the clip is locking both heat blocks, the whole makes it a nice and stiff hot-end.
So here’s the $100 question. It’s serious, not trolling.
Why would I buy this over, Revo, E3D or the Slice nozzles?
What benefit does 2 heaters provide over a single heater. I can’t really understand that small a surface area not being heated quickly. Is it just because there are 2 halves?
I have other questions but without seeing one I can’t really dial them in.
What would be the best reliability between a stainless steel plate in one piece held by a stainless steel base plate compare to two tiny M1.4 screws into aluminium heat sink?
I’m just wondering. You know more than I do. I just have always been taught the fewer moving parts the better and more reliable. I undestand the concept, I personally just wonder if it really provides an improvement. I’ll wait and see what others think, I’m not that brave.
Edit: I mean no disrespect. I just know these aren’t cheap, and aftermarket hotends are getting more and more expensive. You’ve put a lot of time and effort into a different idea, but it’s so different I am not quite sure what to think of it. It’s interesting for sure, wish you luck.
Did Bambu ever officially bless the Panda Revos? On the Wiki it still warns not to use over 48w.
I’m not sure this is true, can you provide a link?
Thank you for your inquiry, no problem at all.
When it comes to hot-ends for filament 3D printers, there are numerous options available. This particular model introduces a novel method for changing nozzles, making it significantly easier than other alternatives.
The Starlex DHB can operate with a single heater, although using two heaters can enhance the thermal transfer to the nozzle.
For many 3D printers, upgrading to the Starlex DHB 22.5 and its heat sink can dramatically enhance the melt length, nearly doubling it while maintaining the same nozzle height as the original. This remarkable improvement not only allows for faster print speeds but also provides the flexibility to use larger nozzle diameters, unlocking new possibilities for your projects.
When it comes to moving parts, their longevity and performance are directly tied to concept; I’ve consistently heard that fewer screws lead to greater reliability… and the Starlex DHB’s innovative design eliminates screws altogether, ensuring a smoother operation.
Many manufacturers must adopt the use of tiny screws to effectively counter thermal creep, fix components such as heaters, thermistors, and aluminum hot-ends. With a bit of luck, you could find yourself able to remove them without any significant trouble, or not.
BTT own website, and I own one.
As I’ve seen, E3D is selling their products with the mention on the box " Officially approved by and including IP from BBL "
@johnfcooley You mean this one, right? I’ve never seen anything suggesting this model is approved by BBL, but if you have a link or press release I’d love to see it.
E3D does, BTT doesn’t. Seems to be a little behind the scenes “thing” going on with them and BL. The E3D unit is pretty much just the stock with a E3D heatbreak and nozzle. I’m not 100% sure on the heatbreak to be honest.
Do you have or can you show a close up of the hinges?
Please point out where I said it was validated by BL.
E3D is, and they use the stock 48w heater. Some end users feel this isn’t enough, but I run the diamondback so it’s plenty.
No, as above, there seems to be some “issue” in that between BTT and BL, but they do advertise the heater as 60w (amusingly throwing E3D in there, which is true)
My apologies, when you replied to my post I thought you were confirming the Swiss3Dc post I was questioning.
You have this close look on the home page of swiss3dc main image
No. As far as I know nothing has BL blessing. At least not to the point where it’s acknowledged. Given that 2-3 pertain to power delivery or use on the system you’d think that something would be said. I finally got the Touch to work with some dark magic and I will not let it run off the USB on the printer.
Funny thing is I have a tap I purchased off Etsy by a guy who makes them at home and ships them out. I trust it far more than I do the branch or the Touch or the PWR. Yet, as an idiot, I keep buying the stuff so who’s really the idiot?
Unless I’m mistaken, the E3D version isn’t 60W.