Just like the title says, I’m looking for a hotend that’s teflon lined.
I work with flexibles almost exclusively and my a1 mini has a long meltzone immediately after an all-metal filament pathway. These add up to no fun with a really soft filament. A partial solution would be lining the heatsink and as much of the nozzle as possible.
Is there anything like this on the market? I haven’t had any luck in my search.
I don’t think you want a Teflon lined hot-end. Teflon starts to break down at 260ºC and when it does, it produces toxic fumes.
The best flowing nozzle I ever used was an Ohlson Ruby. Expensive. I think it was close to $100. But I loved it. Was the only thing I regretted losing when I gave my old printer to my brother in law.
It’s possible the Biqu hot-end would take a Ruby nozzle.
Yeah. But the printer will go to a temperature where Teflon breakdown is a concern. There’s no way for the printer to know. So if you make a mistake and overheat the nozzle, it’ll make you sick.
I’d be surprised if anyone was making a Teflon lined nozzle, they wouldn’t want the liability.
I’m not sure if you mean this literally, but they aren’t the same thing. They’re different things that are measured with different units and cannot be converted to one another. Lubricity facilitates flow for sure, but they’re not the same thing
And as far as the temp, if there’s no way to change the soft temp limit on these printers then they’re a safety hazard.
You’re anticipating this problem with temp, but it wouldn’t be that hard to add a line of Gcode to the start of every print. Every printer is physically capable of exceeding 260° but plenty have Teflon deep in the hotend
The problem isn’t the hotend design and the direct drive extruder should be fine too. The 4 into 1 splitter doesn’t pose any restriction. Unless there’s a big gap between the extruder outlet and the heatbreak entrance where the filament can bend, there’s nothing in the hardware that should stop you from printing TPU70. Lose the reverse Bowden setup you’ve got (from your other post) and run the filament straight into the heatbreak. There’s no requirement for a Bowden with direct drive unless the filament has to be pulled back out of the extruder, like when using an AMS. The less chance of restriction the better.
The rest is tuning your settings.