When doing temp tower for filament do you change the print speed or just leave the speed to what the slicer is set at?
Depends on the filament and whether you are going after the temp or a complete calibration including finding the best bridging settings and such.
In general I try to stick the speeds I use for similar filaments, like using on a new roll of PLA matte in green what already worked fine for PLA matte in red…
Most temp towers come with bridging and overhang feature where the slicer used whatever settings Studio has set.
Means with those you should set the print speed you are aiming for as the default for your prints and let the slicer to the rest.
On the hand, if you do do dedicated calibrations and setting for just affected thing, e.g. bridging it makes sense to go with a bridging test model to to aim do things with a focus on finding the right bridging speed, flow AND temp.
From there you try to adjust the settings for things like slowing down for short layer times won’t interfere.
Usually there is some wiggle room with the temp.
Means you can get away with being slightly over or under the ideal temp without getting and problems on our prints.
Thank you for the help. I’m using Overture pla professional filament. The print speed on it says 40-70mm. I notice in Bambu studio it has initial speed, initial layer infill. Then other layers speed settings outer wall, inner wall, and so on. I know they have different speeds on each one. Just wondering how I should set the speed settings up. I’m sure you wouldn’t want to do say like 70mm for each one or would you? I’m still new a 3d printing
I see the problem now, quite far from standard…
For filaments like this you of course want to start and probably stick with what the manufacturer suggests.
If a test model or slicer defaults differ this should be adjusted.
40-70 means this is the butter zone and if it is accurate your print speeds should stay within these limits.
How does that translate you wonder?
What’s going the fasted in general here?
Infill, inner walls and such…
You could just start by setting 70 for the fasted values in a profile you COPIED/saved to not mess up other ones.
And use 40 for the lowest speeds like outer walls and where details matter.
Then calibrate the filament starting with somewhere in the middle of the print temp range suggested on the roll.
Once you got the flow rate and K-factor honed in you can check with small and thin test cubes and thin but a bit longer cylinders how a change in nozzle temp affects things like stringing between two printed objects, layer adhesion and well, overhangs and bridging.
Of course once you get good prints you can see how fast you go without ruining things.
Like with the speed button and some simple shapes.
This way you find the limits for things like outer wall speed, which you want to come out nice and clean.
A small cube printed with no top layers and no infill can be very revealing as well.
You can print, for example, with two walls and the inner one will always be that - an inner wall.
With aligned seams you can spot speed related issues on those inner wall quite easy in the corners and based on how rough they get compared to the outer wall.
Get as creative as you like and as complex as you deem required here.
But it all starts with flow ratio, k-factor and knowing that the max flow rate in the filament setting is a LIMITING factor.
Why do I tell you this after all this blah blah?
The blah blah might help you to understand but this might save you a lot of time finding the speeds >
Use a cheap and simple filament like PLA and create a dummy print profile for it.
PREFERABLY from the Bambu 0.2mm default.
Come up with a model the means it covers everything from slow to fast.
The fastest is usually the infill, no dramas here.
The overhangs are covered with their own setting and can be ignored for now.
All you need is some straight bits for speed, some corners and arcs and Bob’s your aunty.
Slice the model and check the speeds in the preview.
You will find that when you increase the default max flow rate for PLA some speeds and areas go up in the preview - in some cases well above the values set in the print profile.
On the other hand though, lowering the max flow rate always means even the fastest set speeds will be lowered accordingly so the max flow rate won’t be exceeded.
Just keep lowering it until the preview is right on or just below you 70km/h speed limit, no wait not for the car, make it 70mm/s instead.
Now print it in PLA and keep an eye on it to see whether or not there is any unexpected racing happening.
If it does it might be for not THAT critical things if it is not a print or wipe move.
Like when doing dot like gap infill thing can happen very fast and it is hard to judge it it is movement or print move.
Looks good, works well, no sudden speeding?
Try this max rate when starting to calibrate the low speed filament and you won’t have to worry about the default speeds set in the profile.
And from there, assuming all works out well, you can just keep increasing the max flow bit by bit to when things like infill or inner walls start to struggle.
In the end you turn this into a dedicated profile for the new filament or if working well, just set the max flow ratio in the filament settings and move on.
I still prefer the first as you often have to fine tune the support settings, bridging, first and top layer flow ratio and more.
Slow filament usually translate to having done the basics right ends with good prints and well, slow speed, whichever route you prefer to take here.