Textured PEI with PETG-HF Issue

Bambu Lab A Series Bambu Lab A1 mini
1

I have an A1 with about 1370 hours on the stock textured PEI plate. Most of the prints have been using Bambu Lab PLA. I need to print some desiccant holders for my (4) AMS 2 Pro’s using Bambu Lab PETG-HF.

I dried the PETG for 12 hours in the AMS 2 Pro using the PETG drying profile. I cleaned the build plate with hot water and dish soap. After printing and cooling to room temperature, the first print was securely attached to the build plate requiring considerable force or the scraper to remove. I repeated the print and it was completely loose when the bed had cooled. The third time the print came loose during printing.

I’m using the stock PETG-HF profile (70C bed / 230 nozzle).

The print is one of the desiccant holders that is approximately 43mm by 41mm by 90 mm high. It has a flat bottom (on the build plate) of 44mm by 25mm. When I repeat the print, it is printing in the same area (center) of the build plate. It seems that the first print removes some of the adhesion, but cleaning the plate restores it.

I did not apply anything to the plate. Would glue stick help?

I do not do anything to the plate between prints and I make sure that I don’t touch the area where the print is.

2

I use this nano glue stuff someone told me about, and now I swear by. I’m not sure how the Bambu glues are. I’ve certainly used glue sticks in the past, and didn’t like it.

Basically, same thing though. I print tons of PETG-HF. I use the nano glue on a textured PEI plate. Been doing PETG-Basic like that too.

These days, I use cotton gloves when handling my plates. I can’t remember the last time I actually washed my plates, haha. People have a tendency to scoff at that, like ohhh, I just carefully handle my plate, I’m so fancy with my fancy little fingers. Like Boetch, please, with my cotton gloves, I can man handle the ever lovin’ ■■■■ out of my plates. My hands are all over that plate. It makes it so much easier when I’m not trying to avoid touching the middle of the plate.

Regardless, this combo has been working well for me across the board. I rarely have troubles with stuff sticking to the plate, and usually when I do, I just apply another thin coat, and boom, bob’s your uncle and the print stays down.

[edit to add]

Also, that’s the 1-2 Combo! If you want the 1-2-3 combo, then you gotta get yourself one of those Bambu freakin mag alloy scrapers. I swear to freakin bob, that thing is awesome. I honestly just kind of disregarded it as a cheap gimmick when they first released it, but picked one up on a whim and it is the best. It’s blunt enough not to cut the plate to ■■■■, but sharp enough to actually get under prints.

It’s been a key point of not driving me insane trying to get prints off of build plates, especially with how PETG can sometimes be. I love printing with PETG, but like with brims, they can be difficult to pull up from the build plate. That freaking mag alloy scraper is the best one I’ve used for task like that.

This is my workflow, so, haha. I know you only asked about the plate and glue, but I do find that all 3 of these elements help me succeed with my prints time and time again.

3

That seems…odd to me. In my experience, a plate can be reused many times in short succession with no significant loss of adhesion - and certainly not to the level where the third print falls off mid-print.

Yes, a liquid glue would likely help. Alternatively, a supertack-type plate would also be helpful.