fwiw, I had horrible results with PETG. Coming from a Prusa which was basically CAD/slice/print rinse and repeat, this was quite a letdown.
So I looked at my settings again, didn’t give up and kept trying to tune the print. Again, coming from Prusa, I changed almost everything in both the filament settings (including extruder override) and the layer settings. Everything from retraction length, speed, z hop, even looked at the g code to increase the height of the extruder (because you know, PETG).
Turns out I wasn’t printing the first layer slow enough and at high enough temperatures. I get beautiful prints now with close to stock generic PETG settings. The only change is temperature bracket (high and low) and just a smidgen of first layer height increase and reduction of first layer line width, also speeds are currently capped at 100mm/s but will continue experimenting bringing them higher.
Think my background just wants me to think that everything has to be modified from generic in order to work well, but it turns out that generic was pretty spot on. Something that really helped was printing PETG at a higher temperature (that temperature bracket was important to catch so as to control the oozing). Higher temp, lower speeds to start.
I’ve printed your part and dimensionally I get x: 15.10mm. y: 30.05mm z: 14.97
Photos show some noise on the outside but the holes are not circular, they are slightly flattened.
I imported the .stl into Fusion360 and it looked fine, exported as .stl and I’m printing your .stl and the revised .stl at my settings.
I can’t get SoftFever to work right now (Apple has disabled the app so the author is working on getting it a valid ID). I will retry once I can get the revised SoftFever app.
Thes photos printed in BambuStudio with the Generic Profile and P1P 0.4 Generic Process
Interesting! I measured my print and I got x: 14.98, y: 29.92, z: 15.02 … the opposite direction in all axes to yours! Still, pretty darn close to whole numbers.
Exactly why calibration is so important on these. None of mine are that far off, but most are +/-10C from what manufacturer recommended.
And another reason why I tune every filament I use and tend to stick with the same couple of brands for the stuff I print. Way too many variables when you start changing things around for something cheap.
This is pretty much the same experience I had, but coming from a Zortrax (it’s an industrial printer). They sell proprietary filaments that the machine is pre-tuned to, so I was used to design, slice, print and had very good results every time, without much calibration. But it was slow as balls and the filament was expensive ($60 for 800g of PETG, for example).
First few non-PLA prints on the X1C I also had some pretty garbage results. But after doing similar tuning to what you were doing, I started having fantastic results in PETG at much faster speeds than the Zortrax. Just took a little effort on my end to research what I needed to do to calibrate and then a bunch of test prints to figure out what direction to tune to next.
printing almost flawlessly for me in the lowest of 89% humidity.
This is my first time with a 3d printer combined experience totalling a little over a week now.
Initially I had a few problems due to me not knowing stuff. (still do) but gradually, ive printed pla cf pla, abs, pahcf, petg support material, tpu and pla plus.
I think the best way to approach using a different filament is to just take your time, don’t expect miracles out of the box.
Go step by step. read, research experiment. record each change ie i took a photo of settings on my phone and then a photo of the finished test print.
I cant be happier with this printer, without it i doubt i would have even attempted to try engineering materials.
This photo is of my fourth or fifth item ive printed in cheap esun petg. As you can see its doing a bloody ripper of a job. Just for comparison my mate has a voron and and i think its an ender 10 something. this exact print (tray organiser) on his is a 10 to 12 hour print if not more using petg. This machine with a few minor tweaks. (remember i know very little about changing stuff to make it go quicker,) the duration is 4 hours. No doubt the dryer it gets here and the more i learn i could improve on that print time too. Dont give up on it yet mate.
edit: that was a pretty average pic sorry, heres another.
What helps me most are parts with holes in the side walls. I’m still not sure if my printer has a bug. Bambulab support has been a waste of time in that regard!
It’s not that I’m not willing to fine tune, but I must know before that the printer itself is fine.
What I take from your pictures:
@Matt
Your prints look very good, I don’t see any of the artefacts which I have.
@NeverDie
I’m not sure if there is one artefact in your white print?
@ chmarr
The yellow part looks ok. I don’t see any artefacts!
@imholloway
On IMG1113 there might be an artefact on the right hole, but far less pronounced. The part looks ok, but I would not call it “good quality”?
Would be great to get at least data from 10 X1s!
Yesterday I did some more prints with 2 completely new spools from different manufacturers. One was ASA which I printed with the ABS profile, the other one was PETG. Artefacts were visible in both cases.
I think the fact that PLA prints perfect is a pretty good indicator that your printer is functional.
If you tuned the filament and still had issues, then I’d say your printer was at fault.
Unfortunately there is only so much support can do, because it’s complicated and there are so many variables. The fact that you’ve done everything support has asked you to do and it hasn’t changed the results also points to your printer not having any issues.
What brands? Start doing minimal calibration changes and see if that helps. What speeds? I personally start very slow and work my way up to slow and then less slow, and not the other way around.
That seems about right, I use mainly CF-PETG (Generic) and I had to switch to a 0.6 nozzle due to constant clogging and I dropped temps to 235°. I can run it a Ludicrous speed if I want, but I generally opt for Sport. Strange as Bambu filament doesn’t clog the 0.4 also the generic filament doesn’t clog my Prusa with an 0.4
True, but both are 0.4. I can only assume the extruder on the Prusa is more robust (I believe its a dual) and can push through a clog where the Bambu extruder ends up abrading the filament trying to move it.
Looks like wet petg to me. Try a new, sealed spool. I’ve printed petg without issues, same as thousands of other people. Petg isn’t even a “specialized” filament.
I have no idea what you are doing wrong, I own 2 X1C and 2 P1P and almost ONLY print with PETG, using the generic PETG profile, I don’t tweak it or anything, just click fire and forget. I have printed all kinds of things with PETG. Lately some light saber swords for my kids, and they cam out perfect.
I had a lot of problems printing Atomic Filament PETG using the Default PETG profile. I then noticed that their published spec for the filament was 240-265℃, higher than other PETG filaments I’ve tried. I bumped the temperature for the Atomic Filament to 265℃ (instead of the default 255℃), and it’s been working fine for me since.
The original post mentioned problems with PETG on a P1P, it looks from the micro-lidar on the print head as though the posted images were taken on the X1 or X1C though and not the P1P ?
I like the idea of your labels! Are you just using one of those little handheld label makers to print them?
As to your question about the purple colors: That’s aliasing between the pitch of the layer lines and the pixels of your camera. If you got either closer or further away they’d most likely go away.
It’s a matter of the bright and dark areas falling more or less on different colored pixels in the camera. (Cameras all have red/green/blue filters over the individual pixels to produce a color image.) It’s the same effect you see if you held two window screens at a slight angle to each other.
