I have been printing PETG and ABS without any issues
I have been amazed at the results from the xi series printer
I use the stock settings for BAMBU LABS PetG and ABS even though the filament was not bambu labs
Make sure that the filament is dry…I mean dry dont just put in a bag and say its good…PetG should be dried for 8 hrs and the same with abs…I learned this prior to working with Bambu Labs X1
A;lso if printing fast make sure that the temp is going high enough
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PETG must be dried and even then stock settings need to be tweaked. There are some nice config files(profiles) that can be imported into OrcaSlicer(Formerly SoftFever) to help users dial in filamenta or even just look at filament settings, such as Aux. Cooling, Speed, Volumetric Rates, etc.
User error. Though its due to bad factory profiles. So blame whoever you want.
Print freshly dried PETG at 50mm/s MAX and stop complaining. The bambu machines are superior to petg physics. certain brands of petg can print 100mm/s.
Thnks for the explanation of the photo aliasing.
The labels are one way I document my test cubes it is a Brother P-Touch Cube Plus PT-P710BT Versatile Label Maker with Bluetooth Wireless Technology
I have a bit more advanced question regarding PETG. I believe that this can be tuned in, but there are just too many settings-combinations so it would take me a long time to hit the perfect one.
I use Overture PETG. It seems that I will be able to tune in perfect params for everything but bridges sooner or later. The bridges can look okay - if you don’t look under the bridge. Layer adhesion in bridge is the problem I have. Let me show you some pictures. Here is classic temp tower turned around:
As you can see, first horizontal layer are just strings, which I can pull around and eventually even tear. This is not so much of a visual problem for me, but structural. When it comes to printing real parts, then the problem is obvious:
But with certain settings, this can be improved a lot:
The last pic is of config I randomly put together, but unfortunately do not have it anymore 
- it was not perfect and therefore I did not save it.
After googling around, I figured that following settings affect bridges:
- temp
- cooling
- bridge speed
But the trick is that bridge speed can be optimal in lower range of around 20 or higher range in around 80. When it comes to temp - some say print with lower temps of around 230. Some say print with 270-280. Then there is question of cooling. Should it be high or low? Should it be high when temps are high or… You see my point? Just way too many combinations to play with.
Is here anyone of people who claim that PETG prints just fine and when you print temp tower and turn it around - it has good first layers of bridge? Like I said, I am not so much interested in visual appearance - it is clear that it is possible to make it look good on the outside. And I believe here is where majority of differences come into - it is hard to test all possibilities of all different models that can be printed and some people do not print parts that have complicated bridges and overhangs - printing is easy then, not much to tune into.
Which setting makes bottom part of benchy look better (shiny) than the top:
And after reduction of cooling, following happens:
EDIT: I think I figured it out. It must be overhang speed. I have it set to 60-30-30-30. So difference between 60 and 30 is causing this visible line? Also, there is less material in top wall part of the benchy compared to the bottom shiny one.
make sure your filament is dry and then do a temp tower
You must to uncheck slow down for overhangs. It’s really helpfull to me with PETG
Thanksfull to all bambu lab forum users.
But I knew already that it is in the ballpark of 255-265. I am doing another one from 280-265 now. Low temps are def not good. And I have heard from multiple sources that with low temps PETG suffers from bad layer adhesion.
Regarding “Slow down for overhangs” - I will try that, but I believe it will just make a huge mess with overhangs then.
It seems to me that for PETG, it is very hard (or impossible?) to get a “all-around-good” profile and you have to manually adjust settings according to what model you print. I just want click-n-go profile like PLA is possible on Bambu.
EDIT: 280-265 (from bottom to top):
I would say any temp from 260-280 looks good, very similar and temp tower is okay (besides poor layer adhesion under the bridge regardless of temp).
EDIT2: Wops, I just saw that this temp tower had default nozzle set to P1P and I printed with P1P settings. Wondering if that has anything to do with it working fine…