Thin Wall eliminated... h e l p mates!

Howdy mates,

I’ve been trying to print a small thing with different settings, materials, brands, versions of software to no avail.
I am in dire need of your help!

The creators enlightened me that the software most likely eliminated Thin Walls :confused:
(Cause theyd seen this before and it was always caused by “thin walls” elimination.)

If you guys could tell me how to override thin walls and/or get this to print I would greatly appreciate your help!

Have a wonderfull weekend mates and may the force be with you,
/Silverbullit the epic level noooob

do you want to share the STL /STEP file , does not look like a “thin wall elimination” ,
you can check in the slicer what exactly will be printed and how
Software version will not change anything
and what material you use , looks like PLA?

more like no good print. tunning and learning curve problem here

All red ones are StrongHold Petg, the blue ones are StrongHold sky blue, 3dfils electric blue, R3D light blue, and a couple more that I’m trying to match to Dillon’s color schematics.

I tried a lot of different stuff, I made sure to re download the file regularly and handle it from fresh/untouched .stl between tries and versions of the software. (I guess that is obvious, just saying in case it is not)

How do I share the .stl?

I used the “generic petg” profile with
0,20 standard
0,20 strong
0,16 fine
0,12 fine
0,08 fine
then I used the “bambu petg” profile
with all the above same settings

Then I tried optimizing the filament setting for the petg that appeared to print the best (that is how come theres so many transparent red repeats.

I rolled back and went through a few of the previous firmwares but I am just updating back again to the latest.

Then I fumbled with different settings discussed on the interweb

How do I upload the .stl?

Do you have an email and I can send it to you directly mate?

Oh and yeah, obviously I tried a lot of other stuff obviously as I sit here with a stack a couple of kg/spools of this part in ■■■■ state…

more like no good print. tunning and learning curve problem here

Yep, I sure am a total noob at this…
I got my first x1 in like early-ish february?
Second x1 10 days before the sale.
Only printed around 80 something kg PetG
Had a couple of failures when BS changed to arachne from classic,
besides this is this particular part along with 1 more part that exhibits some sort of crack/missed layer in the middle. However that did not happen now. So unfortunately I have only managed to fix the prints until now that my total noobiness struck me, so I am very glad youre here and can help me learn tuning and pinpoint what I should lean my learning arc against in this case of total failure!
Thanks for helping out mate!

Like I said, I’ll send you the file instantly if you tell me how or if you want it in your mail I can mail it or sprend.it whatever you prefer mate. :slight_smile:

I am not sure if it is a thin wall problem.
Assuming it is, two options exist to ensure the thin walls are sliced.
In the strength tab, you can select “Detect thin walls”:

image

Or if it fails, you may try the Arachne wall generator (maybe not so good as you mention past problems with it):

image

In each case, check in the preview if the faulty layers include the missing walls and if there isn’t any other issue.
You cannot share the STL directly in the message. I would upload it to a personal cloud (if you have one) or use Wetransfer and share the link.

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Does this link work mates?

CLICK HERE DOWNLOAD the infamous .STL of horrible performance

I’m printing out with the Detect thin walls right as this is posted!

Thanks for hangin in there mates and for all your help!!! :partying_face:

Thanks. The link works. I know it was @vladimir.minkov request, but I tried to slice it 0.2mm standard and (without and with) thin walls detections:

The differences are noticeable and relate to the thickness reduction along the z-axis. In this case, there is a variable internal diameter. But you mentioned to be using the correct settings. By the look of the sliced layers, it looks printable, but that region will be thinner. I can foresee some issues if the filament is not dry and calibrated and may need minor tweaks to avoid significant discrepancies with flow, speed, and layer time at that region. But it also is likely to print just as it is.

If you want, I can try to print one (only 7g); if it fails, I may closely examine the cause.

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Did not work but i sent you a message with my email , also @JayZay had some good suggestions

Just got home from todays Cup matches, ohhh
(Have not even unpacked or hit the head yet :slight_smile: )

Thanx mates for helping me out, really appreciate it Jay & Vlad!!!

I started everything up and I checked the thin line box again but this time I saved everything pre-set, then rebooted everything with the choice saved on startup.
Sliced the .3mf file and sending it to printer right now!

I’ll get back to you in a stiff 50 mins and a few secs!

It did not work yesterday but all the installing firmware back and forth and crazy number of attempts… I want to reset e v e r y t h i n g and then try this from start beginning with the above thin line suggestion!

Update… scratching my head here, because now it is printing out the part in nice quality! :slight_smile:

I dunno how come it suddenly works but I sure would like to know how this is possible?!?

Glad to read that it is working. There are “bugs” that are only exterminated with resetting, reinstalling and reprinting… often the “re” seems to be a crucial troubleshooting procedure.

3 Likes

Unrelated so much. today had to help my Son with one schematic to control stepper motors, which was working 99% of the time only rarely would skip in unknown situation. The problem was that they connected the control logic of the driver to 5V instead of 3V3 and yes it works, but skips pulses ‘rarely’ actually i was surprised how well was working with this mistake
Hope that Bambu electronics and FW is not designed by students , but do not want to check it out may find too many ‘workarounds’
Edit : Yes the CPU output was 3V3 and the input of the driver requires 0.7x5V or what ever Voltage is connected to for guarantied pulse reading ‘1’