TIP: Filament breaking off in the extruder during retraction

Now that I have a reliable multi-material printer (Bambu X1C), I’ve lost count of the filament swaps.

The first time the filament broke (just below the extruder PTFE tube), I chalked it up to wet filament (brittle?).

The second time, it was another brand new spool of filament. The third time, it was brand new Bambu PLA.

While learning how to remove the stuck filament from the extruder, I took most everything apart. It turns out that with the right very small needle nose pliers I was able to grab the stuck filament from the top and pull it out. Easy.

Put into perspective, one broken filament after 600 filament swaps is not too bad, but why?

I noticed something when taking the extruder apart. The cutter blade was chipped. I don’t know if this was the cause of any problems, but thought I would post.

The picture is a new blade next to the one I swapped out, and THANK YOU Bambu for including a couple spares!

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Very interesting I will check mine tomorrow. I also ordered 2 x spare extruders just on case I need them in the future. :sunglasses:

If the blade is chipped or blunt will cause heaps of problems , especially with multicolor . I do not do much multi material/multi color prints , but started checking it at least once a month. as around the 200h-250h mark had problems with AMS and was actually cutting of the filament not the AMS

I still need to learn a ton about how things actually work. Cutting off the filament is strange to me (I’m used to a “simple” extraction), especially straight across (I’ve always done the diagonal thing).

How does the cutter actually work? It appears to be a manual thing, but I think the extruder somehow engages it? People talk about what to do when it gets stuck. Mine never has.

Very good question, no idea. If some one can answer how the Bambu filament cutter works ?
i guess somewhere pushes it to the side, by moving the extruder head

The printhead moves to the left front corner of the machine and it presses the cutter lever arm against the left side of the frame, which pushes the cutter in to slice the filament.

BBL chose to do it this way, I suspect, because pulling the filament back without cutting it would require the hot end to stay hot, so the filament won’t pull back cleanly, it’ll “string out” and then you’d never be able to push it back in to the extruder again. Cutting it clean eliminates both the pulling back and the reinserting problems you’d get if you didn’t cut it. Probably the only way to do it reliably enough to make the AMS viable.

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Perfect answer, thank you! Simple solutions are the best!

Just the the record, the Bambu approach IMHO is brilliant!

If the blade was chipped I’d wonder where the chip ended up - if it ended up going into the filament path it might have caused a clog.

I think the nibbled blade is a sign of wear and tear, especially when carbon fiber, ABS, ASA or other stable filaments are cut, material fatigue occurs more quickly.
I also had the error message twice today that the material could not be pulled out of the extruder and therefore had to print completely. cancel.
I still have a color print job to do and if it gets stuck again I’ll take a closer look at the blade.
I’ve printed a lot with PLA CF and PETG CF, maybe that’s where it comes from.

nun auf deutsch, weils meine Muttersprache ist:
Ich halte die angeknabberte Klinge für ein Zeichen der Abnutzung, gerade wenn Kohlefaser, ABS, ASA oder andere stabile Filamente geschnitten werden, kommt es schneller zu einer Materialermüdung.
Ich hatte heute auch zweimal die Fehlermeldung, dass das Material nicht aus dem Extruder gezogen werden konnte und musste den Druckt kompplett abbrechen.
Ich habe noch einen Farbdruckauftrag zu erledigen und wenn es wieder hängen bleibt, schaue ich mir die Klinge genauer an.
Ich habe viel mit PLA CF und PETG CF gedruckt, vielleicht kommt es daher.