A couple weeks back I received my Bambulab a1. The first couple of prints came out nice at a quality my old ender 3 couldn’t get. But since a week or so the top surface seems really bad. It is only the top surface. I printed out an purge bin and i have no problem with that. I will add a picture of it. is is mostly on the end of an line
I print with ender pla. I use it for almost 3 years and I never had problems with it. Only with an old spool which was wet causing stringing. But this spool is ± a week out of the pakaging
What I tried:
Increase top layers: fixes the infill shining true. But what i don’t understand why in the beginning it wasn’t a problem.
hey, thanks for your input. it helped a lot. I discovered that it is mostly an problem with the 0.2 strength configuration. I hope that it will fix it entirely by increasing the top layers.
I did a lot of test prints. Whit a lots of different combinations of settings. This is the best I get right now. It is completely flat and you cant feel any thing. But you see it very good. any ideas?
It has to do with the 5 walls from the strong profile. Only the last layer is 1 wall. in bs there is no choice to make that more. Atleast I cant find it.
Do a PA calibration or Flow calibration if you are not using the filament with the right profile.
I.e. I am using sunroof filament which doesn’t have a profile in Bambu Studio or orca so I had to test out the settings and make it work.
Turns out that the pressure advance (K factor)option for me was 0.04 And the best settings for flow rate where 0.98 to 0.96.
So if you are using generic, make the calibrations and save the profile as your filament.
Either than that, it all comes to line width Which you have to test again to see which one is best for you. Same goes for ironing. There is no universal setting as for PLA it might work with a 0.25 width But for petg would not
Hope this helps
Correct me if I am wrong, but the with the a1 at the beginning of each print it does an flow dynamics callibration?
I will do an flow rate calibration again. maybe it helps
One thing to keep in mind is that auto-cal sometimes gets some filaments waaaaay too high. The average PLA K-factor is 0.022 (this is why uncalibrated bambu studio sets 0.020). Flow is also an issue but this is not auto calibrated.
My engineering led me to read the eddy current approach to auto-cal on my A1. It’s good but after some testing with the new firmware that shows you ythe auto cal result on an A1 I found that it was giving > 0.05 for my white. I dried it and it auto-calibrate to 0.04, still too high). Some filaments just don’t calibrate well I think white has a heavy addidive in in TiO2 that may cause this.
If I print a manual shaped calibration for this filament from 0 to .07 the lines are terrible and break over 3 the sweet spot is , as i said at the start , 0.22.
I’ve turned off the auto cal and printed the shaped pressure advance calibration chevron corners for each filament I have and here are my reults alongside auto-cal
Auto manual-Eye
Creality Yellow 0.032 0.028
Amazon Pearl W 0.041 0.022
Creality green 0.028 0.020
Bambu Matt W 0.022 0.022
Elegoo matt Blu 0.032 0.026
What I will say is that slight errors in all these, in a larger model, wiht slightly fatter lines 0.42 0.45 as set in the profiles you cant see so having auto on usually is ok. My edge case of that Amazon PLA pearl white the auto was doubling the actual needed K-Factor.
Now we understand what the system is doing we know how to use it.
It only took me a few hours and not that much filament to print out one of those pressure advace chevron cal prints for each one. It then saves a lot of filament as i dont click auto cal (unless i’ve just thrown 4 unknown filaments at the printer and need a print quickly)
