Hello all, I gout a new filament and dried it for 8 hours at 75C in the oven, settings for perimeter crossing checked, reduced printing speed to 30mm/s but all that does not seem to help. I used TPU 98A before and that worked well but with this new 95A not good. Does anyone have some ‘blessed’ settings for a 95A ?
Oven temp controls can be out by quite a bit. So it can be questionable if the temp was actually reached unless you used a separate thermometer to monitor.
But you can also use the printers heatbed to dry filament in the same manner as the X/P series.
How to Dry Filament on the X1 and P1 Series Heatbed | Bambu Lab Wiki.
Next, you’ll of course need to calibrate the filament, at least flow dynamics re stringing.
Regarding settings, enable “wipe on retract” in the filament settings.
Final tweaking can then be done on retract length (Bambu recommends 0,8-1,4mm) and, to some extent, retract speed (20-40mm/s).
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I have an A1 mini and the filament dryer only goes up to 55C so I have to use the oven. I could not find any settings with retract length or “wipe on retract” in the BambuStudio settings. Do you have a screenshot?
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You can use the dryer at 55°C, but increase the drying time.
Alternatively, set the heat bed to the max temp, put the spool on it, cover it with a cardboard box, wait 4-6h, flip the spool over, wait another 4-6h. It’ll not be ideal, but it’ll be better than without temp control.
If you really do need to use an oven, place a thermometer in the oven to be able to control the actual drying temp. A meat thermometer is precise enough.
As for the settings, you need to go into the filament settings (the three little dots in the circle to the right of the filament) and then the “Setting Overrides”.
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Edit: Note that for some more advanced settings, you need to enable “Develop Mode” in the Studio Preferences (CTRL + P).
I would look to invest in a filament dryer, the oven might not be accurate enough at low temps and TPU is a sponge.
I can’t recall where I’ve seen it, but in printing TPU I’ve saw an image from Bambu Studio discussing having your model designed or printed in such a way as to reduce head travel to potentially reduce stringing. Not sure if that applies to your model.
I would work on drying that at 70c for 8 to 12 hours in a filament or food dryer. If you are confident your filament is dry, maybe reducing the amount of travel while printing.
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I have a SUNLU S1 Plus and had it in there for 12 hours - no improvements. But I found the retract settings and will try that!
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Make sure to have “wipe on retract” enabled. In my experience, that is the first, most effective step. I use retract settings to then get rid of the remaining hairs.
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That does look a lot better 
To further reduce stringing, you can try to calibrate flow dynamics. The Pattern method with my mobiles magnification works best for me. This will tackle the tiny hairs left when a print path has stopped, but there’s still some minor oozing.
Another cause can be slight wobbling of the print. This can be addressed by reducing nozzle forces which in turn can be addressed by:
- Avoiding crossing patterns (monotonic, concentric, rectilinear, gyroid, honeycomb, … are the patterns of choice)
- A z-hop upon retract of the Spiral type can help (if flow dynamics is calibrated)
- Slowing down either by reducing printing speeds or reducing the max flow rate
- Speculation on my part: Support structures can be prone to bending as they are material minimized. Tree’s with an increased wall count or normal supports with a halved base pattern may be more sturdy, leading to a more stable support and hence stay under the nozzle path a bit better.
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retract length of 1.2 mm and ‘retract on wipe’ now results in completely string free print - very happy!
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