I am having trouble with the flow rate calibration. also my prints look weird and I don’t understand why. 
I calibrated the belt tension but everything looks fine.
Looking at the pix I would choose 5 but even at 20 there is always a gap between some lines.
Does anyone have an idea what it might be? My guess is that I have to calibrate something else? Or is my printer broken? 
This looks more like an extrusion problem related to under temp of the filament. Have you tried to run a temp tower first?
This picture here looks like a classic issue with layer adhesion. Two things to try. Take the entire set of models and shift them about 20 centimeters in some other direction. If the problem moves, then the problem is most likely a dirty plate.
Another thing that might cause this is filament crumbs underneath the build plate. Make sure you checked the under side of your plate to ensure that there isn’t anything melted to it.
The other question is; have you checked the silicone sock to make sure that here isn’t contaminant either underneath the sock or buildup on the nozzle? It doesn’t hurt to take the sock off and inspect it for damage or debris and then clean and put it back on. If it is damaged, it could cause issues like what you’re seeing.
And of course, I’m assuming you did bed leveling before you started the calibration. If not, then make sure you’ve done that too. If you did so but then discovered contaminant like let’s say a spiral of melted poop, you’ll have to re-run the bed leveling after you’ve cleaned off the melted poop. This happens more than you might think.
Hey, I cleaned the plate and the bed beneath it. There wasn’t anything on the bed.
I changed my nozzle to the 0,8mm one and recalibrated the printer. I also cleaned the extruder gear but there was no dirt.
I can’t change the location of the calibration but i redid the flow calibration with the 0,8mm nozzle and it looks much better now.
Finally there aren’t these gaps between the lines anymore.
I also checked my 0,4mm nozzle and the sock but both looked fine and clean.
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Have you done your “K” pressure advance before this? This will also change with nozzle size I’ve found. It’s not always accurate on textured plates which may throw the figure out.
Hey, I did the flow rate calibration and the results were “weird”. The Bambu Lab PLA didn’t work at all but my Sunlu PLA worked much better. And I used my high temp plate.
Do you have any ideas why?
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Yeah that looks terrible, with the .8mm nozzle the flow is going to be different scaled compared to the .4mm. I recently did my .2mm and pa was .15, I haven’t tuned a .8mm so it’s new territory. Nozzle temp will be a factor as well here. Some more lines in your future 
The Sunlu looks significantly better for some reason, maybe the BL needs drying?
likely time to replace the hotend and maybe the extruder.
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I already heated it before that the BL filament is too wet. But the PLA from other manufacturers is doing fine and stored under the same conditions.
The nozzle is nearly brand new. I’ve only used the 0,8mm nozzle for a couple of minutes.
And the extruder is a hardened one and it looks fine. I just took it all apart to check.
and why would only tue BL filament have trouble printing?
Sorry, I meant nozzle temp as in raising it to cope with the extra flow.
Is there a way to raise the temp for these calibration prints? I didn’t see it.
Good question, I haven’t found one but do bump manually as its loading up my bed temp (i use a g10 plate which loves more heat) during the calibration. There would be a method but i haven’t looked deep enough.
So I bump up the temp to 230 manually and printed a bit more lines. I tried another BL filament but the result is again unsatisfying.
This is really frustrating…
try the tower calibration. Orca mentions, the line version depends on getting the first layer correct. If it works with other filament, ditch the bambu spools, for the time being.
Bambu is not a filament manufacturer, they may buy from whoever is the cheapest, so quality will vary. If they only buy from one supplier, and the supplier can not keep up with orders, they will be tempted to cut corners.
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I just tried to move the toolhead and it is much harder to move in the x axis and it is very easy to move it in the y axis. The difference is really huge.
So I’m wondering if this is normal. I didn’t find anything about it online expect that I should clean the carbon rods (which I will!).
I will try the tower calibration tomorrow.
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I’ve just checked pushing the head on my unpowered p1s. It is about just as stiff in each direction, but not as stiff in diagonal. The ‘friction’ is the cogging of the stepper motors, two in x and y, but one in diagonal - coreXY.
Thanks. I think that means that either my carbon rods or the bearings are dirty, or something is broken.
If I try to move my toolhead diagonally then I can’t do it in a smooth motion.
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It won’t be smooth, but sort of vibrate (if you’ve turned the rotor of an unpowered stepper motor, you will know what I mean)… I think the bbl wiki has something wrt cleaning the carbon rods/lubrication, etc. I’ve never felt the need to do it.
I wonder if it is the bambu filament? I tried helping another guy with problems, he only uses bambu filament. afaik, abs and other filaments emit fumes that can coat surfaces.
BBL support send me a custom gcode and asked for the logs. So maybe there is something broken.
I meant that there is very little to none resistance in the y axis but quite huge resistance in the x axis. I can of course feel the resistance of the stepper motor, and the „steps“.
I already looked into a filament dryer because I have quite a lot of filament from BBL. 
And so far my experience with BBL filament has not been very good. I have another topic in this forum about their PETG which was horrible.
It sounds there is something jamming a bit
Wrt filament driers I had an eibos? (spelling) but it gave uneven heating, and some cardboard spools would get unstuck. I recently bought a sovol dual spool thing, (on offer at Amazon). It seems to be a better unit, but I need to modify it, since I have to use the touch screen, which means I can’t start it remotely.