Hi
Tried my first with PETG the other day. On the engineering plate with glue, I got it to stick after two trials. But the print seems to have bad adhesion in general between the layers, any tips in the right direction here?
Using the default settings for PETG in Bambu studio.
Try higher nozzle temperatures. My X1C has really badly calibrated hotend thermistor, with room temp 20 deg C it’s showing 23 deg C, maybe yours it not calibrated properly as well.
Yep, poor layer adhesion usually indicates a hotend set too cool for the print speed.
Thanks both, that’s interesting. I’ll be sure to try that!
Wonder if hotend thermistor can be recalibrated?
I would not worry about calibrating the thermistor. I am not going to say the person stating theirs was out of calibration is wrong, but I will say it is doubtful that that is the case. They probably just aren’t aware that the electronics produce heat up even when idle, or that heat from sunlight entering the printer gets somewhat trapped since it cannot convect out while the glass lid on (if they have an X1), unlike in the surrounding room where more heat diffuses. For example a car gets way hotter than the outside air when it’s sitting in sunlight, same principal.
That could be an issue with the “Slow down for overhangs” option in Bambu Studio. There are several other threads here with very similar failure patterns that were solved by turning that off.
Could also be either temperature or speed as well. The default PETG profile has never worked for me at all. I used Orca Slicer and calibrate all my PETG filaments and now get great results.
I also highly recommend a Textured PEI plate for PETG. They work great and you don’t have to use a glue stick.
I have basically same problem as OP on a similar PETG part. Using PEI plate with some extra BL liquid glue. Slow down for overhangs setting is off. Still the layers separate at different times. Printing hotter, slower and with little to no cooling seems to help. OP can try reducing cooling and maybe 260 °C at 10 mm3/s flow limit. Also, drying the filament before use is advised. The X1C has a built-in filament drying program that’s a bit hidden 
ok yeah. mine seems to show 33 when rest of room is probably around 24-25°C
I’ve seen those posts too, but If printhead is moving slower, there should be more time for heat to accumulate and since other suggestion here is that heat is not high enough - it’s a bit contradictory
Anyway, I ordered a textured PEI plate now too.
How do you calibrate your filaments btw? I’ve never used OrcaSlicer, what would you say are it’s main benefits?
Ok, I’ll definately increase the temp next time and try. But I was allready at 255° and 10mm3/s volumetric flow speed! This filament was straight out of the bag from the shop though, so hope it’s dry enough. is PET much more hygroscopic than PLA?
I use the Orca Slicer built-in Flow Rate and Pressure Advance functions to fine tune each filament. When using a textured PEI plate the Lidar auto calibration on the X1C does not work so it’s kind of a necessity.
Here’s a link to the Orca Slicer Calibration WiKi for reference.
Thanks! but whoa, now we’re getting into that point where 3D printing turns from a tool to a hobby. Trying to steer away from there as much as possible 
Yeah nahh I don’t bother that much either. I just swap my PEI plate to the cool plate or engineering plate for non-PLA, let the built-in flow calibration run, cancel the print and then swap plate back to PEI. The value is saved per slot (persistent through power cycles) until another flow calibration is run for that slot. A temp tower might be worth it in your case. If you have multiple spools or you know the empty spool weight, you can weigh them on a kitchen scale before use to see how much water they absorbed from factory. Actually had multiple factory-sealed eSun PETG spools with WET silica bags, sure enough the filament was RMA.
oh, so the “flow calibration” setting is saved per slot in the AMS + the reel slot? If that’s the case perhaps I’m doing it way to often because I always leave it checked even if I’m printing with the same material right after.
Temp tower sounds like a good idea, definately!
Also, good idea with the weight, I only have one of these reels though so won’t help me here. Suppose I could dry it just for the sake of it anyway. Wouldn’t hurt if it’s allready dry I suppose.
BambuLab support said:
Currently, the printer remembers the data of the last flow calibration, whether you restart the machine or switch from AMS to spool holder printing. Until the next time you perform a flow calibration, it will overwrite the data from the last flow calibration. We will optimize the flow calibration process in the future so that the printer can remember multiple flow calibration data.
2. About the relationship between flow ratio and flow calibration, it’s a good question. Actually, these two are not much related. The current flow calibration actually only calibrates the dynamic flow response, known as extrusion compensation, to ensure that the flow rate of the extruded filament is consistent with the moving speed without lagging as the tool head accelerates or decelerates. Absolute flow (or steady flow) is not calibrated. The “flow ratio” adjusts the absolute flow rate. For example, if you feel that the overall filament on the surface of the printed model is redundant or insufficient, you can adjust the flow ratio to appropriately decrease or increase the extruded filament.
Here’s a temp tower I did. Must say my untrained eyes woulnd’t really be able to draw any conclusions here, they all look fine to me. Perhaps you see something that would direct me to using one temperature to another here?
how did you manage to solve the print quality? did u switch to orca slicer? having the same bad print quality with PETG. Im trying the “Slow down for overhang” OFF
Hi!
Im sorry, but i neither remember if I’ve solved it or not. And if I did I don’t know how. Haven’t printed that same large thing again but numerous smaller without problem.
