The petg profiles sem to be incorrect. Many folk have had problems. I think the best solution is to run the Orca test pieces,and calibrate for your specific filament. (there are a lot of variations in Petg brands). I found that It worked better for me if I transferred some of the settings for Pla profiles. I can’t give a specific answer to your particulart problem.
Why doesn’t it ever get fixed? It seems like every day someone new tries to print in PETG and then posts yet another message on the forum asking how to do it right/better. And it will go on like that, forever, until BBL fixes its PETG profiles.
Why doesn’t it ever get fixed? It seems like every day someone new tries to print in PETG and then posts yet another message on the forum asking how to do it right/better. And it will go on like that, forever, until BBL fixes its PETG profiles.
I think you have misunderstood something here, this is not about BBL PETG < the profiles work well! It’s about custom PETG in this case: Eryone.
Not all PETG manufacturers use the same compounds. So how is BBL supposed to fix this?
I don’t buy that explanation, because if that were true, then it would be a problem on other printers also. Wouldn’t it? I don’t recall PETG being especially problematic on Prusa printers or creality printers.
If yours is a p1s, then the others are open, and they print slow. Easier to get a working profile for them. I solved my petg situation by trying to remember what I did for my ender 3 - iirc, I altered retraction and temperture and part cooling fan speed from pla settings. Increasing speed needs a fair number of adjustments, they are now making ‘high speed filaments’, presumably because they melt/freeze quicker.
Hi, I’m not sure what your settings are, but I have been printing PETG prints at 100mms speeds for outer/inner walls, infill settings, top surface, gap, etc., besides travel speed, which I have left at the default 500mms. These settings have worked well for me on several troublesome prints. Good luck!
Different brands, different colors, different ingredients, different settings.
I currently have three colors of PETG, one Sunlu, two Inland. Each one needed individual calibration and a different preset. Neither the default Bambu PETG nor the Generic PETG presets worked at all with poor bed adhesion, lots of stringing, and layer separations.
Two brands and colors of ASA - two presets.
Three colors of PLA, two manufacturers, two presets, need a third. The one small black part I’ve printed using the white preset for the same brand was usable, but not as good as white prints. I just have not yet had time to calibrate the black.
Oddly, I just yesterday had similar issues with Eryone PETG but the clear version. I got it to work by reducing Max Volumetric speed to 6 cu mm/s. That makes it print at about the same speed as an Ender 3.
Well, when it comes to PETG - even the Profiles on my new adventure were a complete disaster too. If you are into PETG, absolutely no problem - just PLA drives me crazy…
Fist layer I always go down to 0.15, the PETG really need to pressed into the structure of the Plate. I even go down to a speed of 50mm/s by first layer infill by 105mm/s and than i do not go over 200mm/s at all and I run all PETG of every supplier at the same settings - no problems so far but maybe just more luck than understanding. The temperature of the nozzle I always put at the maximum - layer adhesion is much more important to me than beauty.
The first layer is the all-important one. Dirt on the nozzle that then solidifies is the end. That’s why I might put the lidar with the first layer inspection above all else and it’s so important to me.
Attention: Insufficient Z-hopping causes the layers to fall off… Z-Hoping is ones in the Filament Settings as well as there is a overwriting min. Z-Hope setting in the Printer settings (thanks to the person how found this overwriting setting out but I can`t find the trade anymore).
If nothing helps anymore on the first layer - there is also the old sugar trick. Although I have a little in an atomizer bottle and you have to spray it very carefully because otherwise everything sticks. To clean of the parts afterword also sucks a littel. For me, this is only an emergency trick, for example if the new PEI structured plates are not arrived… By the way, today I threw away 4 glue sticks - when will they stop putting unusable items to the printers, even a Knipex electronic side cutters cost 20 Euros (useful for lifetime and one that works) and all the stuff added scrap to the printer just ends up on the trash
Well I finally got it right… Found PJC’s settings for eSun PETG which he has kindly made available in printables… And it’s a 3 part tuning - Machine, Process and Filament.
Strangely I tried using the 3 settings as described and although it got better it wasn’t quite all right. So after that I tried the filament setting with the printer “0.4 nozzle” standard profile and the process “0.2mm Strength” standard profile and it just printed perfectly with no supports… I’ll share the settings here but you can get the 3mf file with all of this from printables here:
The first layer decides the PETG game. If you don’t get the first layer clean pressed into the textured plate (as well as cleanly)… The best parameters will no longer save you. And since I don’t have to stand next to the X1C, the material of the first layer always gets a current flow calibration, the printer of course also a actual bed plate leveling followed by an first layer check…
Alongside: The Adventure 5M - PETG Prints I only starts from the printer with previous leveling. If not, it’s better to use old printing speeds or live with a lot of scrap parts - From this point of view the every time X1C flow calibration and the first position check is may a bit overrated… but without the current printing plate leveling, that will only result in a lot of scrap. But maybe it’s just me, everyone has to know for themselves…
Hear this a lot - I really have absolutely no problems with PETG.
I have a really worry-free life with PETG PETG and TPU and you have 60% of all my materials that I print - the rest is then Biofuison Pro and with Biofusion Pro I have zero Problems at all but is not cheap…
Because there is no need to fix something that isn’t broken!
I print a lot with PETG with different brands even some low cost generic brands and 80% + times I can use the BBL generic PETG profile as is with good results even without running a temp.flow,…etc calibration on the specific filament. Tweaking for stringing is the main adjustment that I’ll have to do since that can vary greatly with brands.
Why do some folks have issues with printing PETG, well maybe because they expect that it has to behave exactly like PLA ,which it doesn’t
Well, you may well be right: maybe it is just user error on my end. I can’t say that I have as yet exhausted all possible remedies. I was satisfied running PETG on the X1C when it was configured to use a 0.4mm nozzle. I encountered a lot of stringing when I moved to a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height. According to the BBL wiki, stringing has a number of possible causes, and one of them might be if I am printing too slow. So a potential new remedy that I’m about to try is printing with a much lower layer height (e.g. 0.12mm layer height) to force a faster print speed. Maybe I will have less stringing that way.
Well, I do not use 0.6 since Machine running time is cheaper than filament costs. On the old one I still used 0.6 - it was really about time. I’m no longer really interested in what the printer is running longer (and it is nowhere near as much longer as it was 1-2 years ago)… and I don’t have to constantly look at it anymore but maybe I’m wrong.
And Panamon is right - in my point of view it`s also more about the Silicer settings and much less about the fillament profiles.
I have a project where I anticipate I will be printing PET-CF, and BBL’s standing advice was to use a 0.6mm nozzle for printing that filament type. Meanwhile, the project got delayed, and I decided to stick with the 0.6mm until it’s over. Whenever it finally is over, then I’ll be reverting back to a 0.4mm nozzle.
PETG and TPU and you have 60% of all my materials that I print - the rest is then Biofuison Pro and with Biofusion Pro I have zero Problems at all but is not cheap…