I used black PETG to print the wall connectors. Both tries turned out the same, what i did in between was drying the roll for 6 hours in a sunlu dryer. Not sure what i am doing wrong here.
I am using this Honeycomb Storage Wall The Complete Edition Remixed by Justin Yu - MakerWorld and did not touch the settings, beside that i am using a 0.6 Nozzle with 0.18 layer height. Observing it, the print looks fine until the last couple of layers when this “crumble effect” starts. Any hint appreciated. (I did print other things hours before that and that worked fine, like the wall part in grey petg, and some red holder in PLA… ).
The PETG in question is maybe 5 weeks old and the original bambulab black petg.
I will try that next. I am currently printing a piece with a different PETG to rule out that something is wrong/different with the black PETG. I read some threads here that argue you need higher temps, or you need to turn overhang off, so lot’s of things to try.
I will report back if i am successful, or if i need more advice. Black PETG seems to be tricky. (i printed light grey and yellow with no problems the last few days, including some “stick figures” with black PETG just yesterday and it worked fine on that. )
Printed one piece with grey PETG and using the settings above. No difference at all, still all crumpy on the top. Just to make sure that i did this correct. In bambustudio i press the edit filament button next to the filament drop down (which is irritating because it talks about X1C and a 0.8 nozzle… ), edit the values (which is the preset, so it will apply to all PETGs loaded inside the AMS, correct)?
Now printing this in PLA, to see if this would work. I want the base parts of the honeycomb wall though in PETG for added durability… So this is just a “test” to see if PLA would work. I could do this in ASA, but i really want to understand why this is not working first.
So this is the PLA version, a material that i normally have no problems with (assuming it’s dry). You notice the same issues, but less of it. I wonder if this is the layer height that is screwing this up. Maybe this model is just designed in a way that a 0.4 nozzle, layers all 0.2 are working better with that. Is that a reasonable theory? (i am new to this hobby, so, there is a lot i don’t know).
That’s the problem. In this case not the Layerheight but the line width wich you get from an 0.6mm nozzle.The slicer won’t slice it properly with a 0.6mm nozzle, because the details are too small.
Left Picture (0.4mm): Bridges all the way vs. Right Picture (0.6mm) bridge stops before the end.
So also as a beginner, always check your sliced files before you hit print.
I for example design most of my models for 0.2mm layerheight and 0.4mm nozzle. So there could always be details like special bridges wich could fail at different layerheights than a multiple of 0.2.
Sorry I just looked at the part in the slicer and it has a bridge in the area you are having a problem with. I did not notice that the first time
Double check your parts fan is working and also needed for bridges to work correctly.
A bridges layer height 0.2 will bridge better than 0.18
With petg filament set your bridge speed to 10 mm/s and the bridge flow to 0.8
With your pla filament you will need to do some bridge testing. It might be like 0.8 flow and bridge speed might have to be in the 30 mm/s range you will have to test it out on your filament.
A .4 nozzle will look better on smaller layer heights but bridges will still like 0.2 with the .4 nozzle.
The nozzle line width can also be adjusted for the part.
That makes sense to me, i think. I would have assumed that the slicer adjusts this automatically when you switch nozzles. I was hoping i could print this with the 0.6 nozzle (just to save time). Tonight it is Xmas dinner time, but i will try to print this with the 0.4 tomorrow to see if that solves the problem.
Also, 6 hours isn’t enough time to dry wet filament. You should increase that to 24 hours. You might get away with less, but the only way to be sure is to extend the drying time enough to be sure.
If the filament oozes from the extruder when the printer isn’t actually extruding anything, that’s a sign the filament needs to be dried more. Looking at your print, I think that this is the issue.
This is PETG. The honeycombs are only 3mm across. But you can see how cleanly it printed over all. This was with PETG I dried at 70ºC for 24 hours.
@RocketSled: this is not a matter of moisture. I appreciate the well meant advise, but my filament was in the dryer 12h 3 days ago, another 6h after the failed print, then another 12h, and it still failed. I tried different dry filament, and it all failed the same way. Right now I believe, based on the more useful advise given by others, that this is a matter of line width for the bridge. What you printed there has no resemblance to my piece.
So for everyone else who is searching for answers. Yes, wet filament can create similiar problems, but this is not the case for this particular case. And yes, if you have a question about fails, wet filament will most often be the most likely issue and the first advise you get.
This (Thick Bridges) did the trick. Prints now come out fine with the 0.6 nozzle. I reset all the other variations above (like flow control etc) back to defaults and only set “thick bridges” and it worked.
Thanks for that. Soo many options, is there a PDF that actually explains all of them and their interactions?
I learned a lot about the when/why/how to use particular settings from the PrusaSlicer site. The slicer screens are not the same as Studio (which was derived from PrusaSlicer) but most of the settings and their uses are the same.
