The only prevention I can think of then would be to run it through something like a 1.8mm nozzle on a rewinder. Then if it’s too far out of spec, it would jam on the rewinder and not in your printer. Since it comes on cardboard spindles, I was maybe having to do that anyway, though I’ve since learned there are other ways of working around the cardboard spool problem.
Could also have it hot and it would remold it
1 Like
Meanwhile, I wonder if a viable safety precaution for cheap filaments would be to set the maximum volumetric flow to half of whatever you measure it out to be. That way if the filaments diameter is 2mm, like what you measured its true diameter to be, then I’m guessing the extruder could still force it through?
When it’s done drying I’ll try measuring its diameter. Maybe mine is too narrow, which would maybe explain the seemingly crazy high 30mm^3/sec I was able to get out of it–maybe it was all illusory from the very beginning.
For me, I couldn’t force that filament through at any temp. The inside of the Bambu Lab hotend is 2mm so the filament wedged itself in.
1 Like
https://www.printables.com/model/57154-infidel-inline-filament-diameter-estimator-lowcost
I suppose it’s better than nothing.
For present purposes probably overkill though. Earlier today I tried looking for a 1.9mm nozzle to serve as a kind of “upper bound” one filament diameter sent through a filament rewinder, but I had no luck finding anything. I suppose one could take a regular nozzle and simply drill it out with a 1.9mm drill bit, or the like. The orientation relative to the feed path would have to be just so or it might snag the filament, but maybe fitting it into a gimbal bearing would allow it to self align. Seems like it would be fairly inexpensive to bodge something together.
They’re sending me 2 more rolls. Hopefully, their filament has gotten better.
Will you be taking any precautions this next time around, or are you going to trust that it will work out?
I’ll probably check it every now and then and hopefully my hotend wont clog again.
OK. If you change your mind later, I found that there exist plasma torch nozzles which have a 1.9mm opening and which are made from Hafnium, which is a metal that has a MOHS hardness score just slightly greater than zirconium hardness. They’re fairly cheap, so I’ll be buying some and mounting one in a spool winder to hopefully screen out any filament that might be too wide so that it doesn’t jam-up my printer. Unfortunately I don’t know what the diameter tolerance is, so I’ll just be taking a flyer on it and see how it goes.
For now, I just took a nozzle and drilled it to 2mm and that might stop it. Of course, I found a 1.9mm drill bit after I drilled it.
Just got my two rolls of filament. I can’t measure that much of it, but what I could measure is within spec. I will be trying it out today and I’ll report back.
@NeverDie, have you checked your rolls yet?
No, I moved on after I stumbled across a unicorn filament that, from a functional standpoint, works even better:
https://a.co/d/4c3Pb14
It’s a low odor ABS with enhanced temperature resistance that I’m able to print at 25mm3^3/sec. It’s not quite as inexpensive, but close enough if you buy two or more rolls at a time.
I might try that because of its price. Don’t get how it’s low odor though.
It’s a euphonism. It would be more accurate to say “it doesn’t stink as much” during printing as regular, generic ABS.
I would like to know how they do that. Every ABS I’ve used has always smelled bad, even from bigger brands such as Esun. With my P1S, it hasn’t been a problem until my carbon filter died.
Some brands are claiming they have an odorless ABS. Creality takes it even further and says their ABS is both odorless and non-toxic:
It’s a rather bold claim, isn’t it?
1 Like
That is bold. I’d like to see someone test that.
Just tested the filament, and so far it’s been going great. Haven’t even dried it yet.
2 Likes