I am trying to print a figure with the 0.2 nozzle. I use the silent mode, to cut down my speed by half, I use hybrid trees, with 3 layers of interface. The results I get are really nice and smooth except for the bottom of the print, where the model meets the interface. That part of the print looks garbled. Is there something I can do?
Are there photos that can be posted here?
What material and brand is being used?
What build plate is being used, is it perfectly clean and was glue applied?
By “the bottom” does this mean the underside?
Does it look like under-extrusion?
If not BBL filament, has a custom preset been created with the temperature settings from the packaging?
What I am currently trying to print is a figure of Bridget, from Guilty Gears. That model comes in segment that you can glue together when ready. As a test drive, I tried to print two objects that character is holding: a yo-yo and a stitched-up teddy bear.
I didn’t use a separate material for these attempts mostly because it uses up a lot of filament for purging, as well as pushing the printing time to hours just for a yo-yo the size of a Mentos.
Since this is white filament, pictures are of very little help. Still, here’s the teddy:
You can see the horror on the torso, leg and arm. Half cooked spaghetti…
- The material is Bambu Lab matte PLA (white).
- The Plate is the PEI texture plate. I keep it clean between prints.
- Yes, I mean the underside of the object. On the photo, the garbled bits are what makes contact with the interface part.
It’s worth nothing that I tried making an interface with PETG on other prints of the same type and while the supports separated like magic, I still get that failed spaghetti underside on the model.
Not HIS botom, silly 
The bottom of the print, where all those ugly waves are! 
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I’m trying understand how the “waves” are forming under the arm. Is the arm a separate piece? Have you tried printing with the model standing on its feet?
One thing worth noting is that the parts are in stl format.
When you load the teddy, looks like this:
All items I print with tree supports have those waves at the contact points situated at the bottom of the print, no matter what position they’re printed in.
Sighhh… as a bumper sticker once said, “There is no gravity, the Earth Sucks!”
My friend, I’m afraid you’re asking for the laws of physics to be ignored here. Unfortunately, where there is gravity, there will be hanging filament that needs support, and where there is support, there is contact. And where there is contact, there are going to be marks, blemishes and stringing hanging filament, there is no way to escape this.
Outside of resin printing which does not rely on gravity, you’re only left with one option, that being 100% support contact with zero support layer spacing and most importantly, dissolvable support filament. You’ll also need an AMS to carry this out. Then print that solid mass and soak it in water to wash away the support. That’s about as good as you can expect.
Since I have no experience in this directly, hopefully your post will attract the attention of some community member who does and they can share examples of what can and cannot be done.
Above all, temper your expectations. As of now, based on what you’ve posted, I’m afraid you’re asking too much of the technology.
Sometimes it can help to cut a model into parts to get a better print orientation for each part and then assemble the parts. It also means you can use different filaments for each part possibly cutting down waste. I would try cutting the head from the body and lay the neck on the build plate for both parts, trying to get the body as vertical as possible with the cut angle. I would expect less support would be needed to print that way.
I’ve got an AMS. I did consider the dissolvable filament… what bothers me is how the switching of materials wastes about as much filament as is actually used in the print. Dissolvable filament is neat, but considering how much more costly it is than PLA, it’s infuriating to see so much of it going to waste. I assume that in order for it to dissolve properly, you can’t cheat with the waste volume ratios between dissolvable support and main material and must use standard supports too, to avoid the problem I have with those defects I have had?
I hear ya brother. The whole notion of filament purge in general is a hard pill to swallow until you consider the alternatives which is clogging or mixed filaments as I recently experienced when I experimented with a sample of wood filament. It took quite a lot of cycles to get that filament to purge itself completely from the nozzle. Early on used to gather the poop and weigh it just to see how much was wasted, I stopped that practice because it was a bit disconcerting how much is wasted.
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The “Cut” feature on the top toolbar can split the model into a front and rear half, and the inner flat surfaces that join can then be placed on the build plate.
Select “Place on cut” for both objects, but do not select “Cut to parts” (leave it to cut to Objects).
In the Cut feature there’s a button to “Add Connectors” that will help align the two halves when they are glued together. The connector would have to be a recess/hole in both parts so that they can lie flat. A pin can be inserted into the recesses/holes to align the two halves.
It looks like there will be no overhangs, so no support will be required. Both halves may print superbly, especially using the 0.08 High Quality pre-defined process.
Now that might be very helpful… I can’t figure how to make the pin from their guide though. Can the pin be created separately, as a third part? Meshmixer seems to be able to do that but I am not sure about Bambu Studio.
Right-click on the plate and select Add Primitive → Cylinder and make a pin.
When I make the cut, I have the option to create connectors, but whatever values I create don’t punch holes on the object. Also, I sure can creat a cylinder, but how do I make it the right size so it sits flush in there, once printed?
A location to place the dowel must be selected as shown in the aniGIF in the Add Connectors section of Cut Tool | Bambu Lab Wiki before clicking “Perform Cut”.
There are some good Cut tool tutorials on Youtube, here are a couple:
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Take a look at this thread which may answer many of your questions. Then after viewing the YouTube video, if you have any questions, ask.
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The holes might actually be there. The coloring of the active hole makes it hard to see, but if you make a second hole, the first one will be easily visible.
I think I got the principle of it all down pat thanks to your links Olias
One thing: The cutting system seems to work across the whole part. Is there a way to make the cutting plane smaller?
Picture for example a tree growing inside a hollow container. It’s all just one model. If I want to cut the tree at the stump without cutting the container, is there a way to create a smaller cutting plane, one which won’t extend all across the object?
If I understand your question correctly, you want to cut a notch out of a model. The cut tool is not designed for that, it cuts on an infinite plane. However, you can fake a cut like a hack saw might do on a piece of wood. What you would use is a negative modifier in the shape of what you ant to cut. Then move it into place, and slice.
Here’s how that might look. In this example we’ll start with a cube primitive and make it 100x50x10mm.
We’ll add a negative part in this case another cube primitive and change its dimensions to create a blade of 1mm in thickness with 70x30mm in height and width. Then drag it into the middle of the model.
Slice and you have your cut.
You can see here that you can use any kind of model and make it a negative to create any shape cut you want. That’s the beauty of FDM printing, you don’t need to be linear.
I’ll take a Benchy and scale it to 25%
Then I will take the two objects and create an assembly.
Change the type of the benchy to a negative part
Slide the negative into the space you want to cut.
Slice and now you have a dock for you benchy.
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