I can’t put a finger on what the problem is but no matter what settings I use I can’t build prints that are higher than a few inches.
My problem is generally the nozzle going through infill while printing. In shorter prints it usually only makes a terrible noise.
But on higher, more vertical prints this problem turns out varying results;
Breaking and shooting of a support branch only to fail the print when it needs that support branch
Knocking over the print itself
Causing a layer shift
I also have a problem with vibration; vibrations almost always cause a layer shift in vertical prints; I ffirst thought of it as the caveat of a slinging bed system but the more I read, the more I think it’s also a problem on my side…
I can upload many photos if needed but these are more like general problems and I had these problems in many prints…
I too purchased a new A1 unit, about a week ago. I had few good prints, in the first few days, and then it’s about 90% fail rates. I did all I could, everything that was suggested on the forums. Nothing helped, no infill, no Zhops, no cleaning, no nothing. The nozzle keeps breaking the prints, no matter what. The only thing that I have yet to try is to tighten the four screws that are on the back of the extrueder. I hope you manage to resolve your problem, easier than me. As as it stands, I will return and refund the machine, if the problem is not the 4 screws.
Grid is a [redacted] choice for a default, bambu’s marketing team got a hold of the slicer profile code.
Grid is the fastest (long straight lines) but also crossing (the print line will cross over and tear thru another printed, solidified, line) which imparts force onto the part to knock it off the bed. And grid creates the MOST possible crosses, all while creating mechanically inferior infill.
So if you like fast at the expense of every other print parameter, use grid.
Gyroid removes all of those weaknesses, at the cost of time. But when you have tall prints with low area of adhesion to the bed, on a bedslinger like the a1 you need to slow down anyways, and the no crossing will help double. Glue may also help as insurance if you’re doing something thin and long like a sword blade
On the A1 I found that tall prints can sway with the rapid bed movement. I fixed this by adding triangles on the sides to provide support. Also, when the print head was hitting the print and making noise there were all kinds of tiny filamant bits scattered about. To fix this I increased the nozzle temperature 2 degrees and I slowed the print speed down. I also used a hot glue gun mid print and some popsicle sticks to support the print which works in an emergency and it is very difficult to clean without 99% isopropal alchohol so I don’t recommend it.
Thank you all for all of the help! Using gyroid really did the trick. I noticed that even with Avoid Crossing Walls option the nozzle hits the infill from time to time but using gyroid fixed this problem completely
@Alpine I will try hot glue gun trick when I’m trying to print small but vertical miniatures of Kingdom Death (2 cm tall guy without any standing disks) I already have a bottle of %99 IPA so I don’t think it will be a problem…
