Unable to remove 0.4mm H2D nozzle hotend

Do you mean inside the printhead?

I mean this stuff on the tip of the nozzle, also check the back where it meets the heater block.

1 Like

Glad I could help.

3 Likes

I stand corrected, glad you got it out.

3 Likes

I have 10kg of dry ice coming on Tuesday with gloves designed to stop the burning from the other end of the scale!

I had 10kg arrive on Thursday without the gloves and lost some of the tip of a finger because I thought they put the gloves in with the ice.

Safety first.

From another glove making a similar claim:


Looks as though the dwell time figures into it pretty strongly.

Can anyone recommend a less “lossy” glove for this type of application? One that won’t leave part of itself behind on the nozzle/hotend?

Whatever is closest honestly. Something metal and im very careful when i tap it. The HF nozzles that I have were from the very first wave and seem to be even tighter than the non hf. For those, I have to give it a bit harder of a tap. Im sure that eventually the seat will wear in and be a better fit. Smarter than making them loose from the get go and having them get too loose over time imo. In my own situation, theres never any filament holding it. Just a snug fit from being so new.

Im curious, did you find filament on the mating surfaces? or just on the front where its exposed while printing?

why not? How are you getting rid of it?

I meant on the actual mating surfaces. Mine are just really tight after heating and cooling a bunch of times.

If people are regularly getting filament in between the heater and nozzle, I would contact support. Thats kinda dangerous…but may actually explain weirdnesses that have been posted about nozzle temps

Well, now that you mention it, I took a closer look, and it does appear that maybe there was some kind of “crud” on both surfaces. Maybe it’s what was sticking them together? This was the original nozzle, installed at the factory. This was the very first time I had it off, so I’m assuming it was either crud from the factory, or maybe vaporized plastic found its way there?


What do you all think it might be?

Here, I cropped them to make them easier to see:


Dang. no good. At first, I thought maybe from abs and asa fumes, but I print mostly abs with mine. Maybe it wasnt seated perfectly and left a gap? Im lost on that one. looks like something made its way to the top of the seat. Have you had a giant blob lately?

That bottom lip on the mating surface side of the nozzle should prevent this

Could it have been PPS fumes or microplastics that found their way there from the left hand nozzle while printing Bambu’s PPS-CF?

I would check the other nozzle and see if it looks the same. I havnt printed any pps. Its still new to me. I havent even done basic nylon yet with the h2d

That was my thought, maybe clean it with some IPA and check it frequently to see if it happens again.

The left nozzle shows only trace amounts of crud, aligned with the bottom part of the melt zone:


but is otherwise pristine.

100% not PPS PMs and VOC film. I’ve seen this on other printers in one way or another. I’ve seen this on non hardened A1 nozzle and stock P1 nozzle.

I really despise A-style nozzles as they are more prone with leaving insulated air gaps and leaking out. So what I did with my A1 is I actually used high temp TIM… but I don’t think it will work for you, since it pretty much means the nozzle is non-removable (removable, but it’s messy).

You mean something like this?

As long as it doesn’t drip down and create its own mess, I’d be open to trying that as a preventative. I mean, it should fill the gap and prevent the crud from building up and sticking the nozzle to the mating surface, right?

1 Like

If you decide to experiment, I like slice engineerings boron paste

OK, sure, I’ll order it. As long as it doesn’t dry out, it should last quite a while I imagine.


They’re both boron nitride, but maybe Slice’s is better.