Hi all. I think I have some basic misconception about how infill works :).
I am printing a small object from translucent filament and wanted it it to be solid. So, I set the infill to 100%.
I am suprised to see that the nozzle still “wiggles” when it prints instead of just running solid lines, so I looked a the preview and it shows this:
Why is it doing this? What should I do if I want it to print solid? Increase the walls to some gigantic number?
Maybe try a different type of infill? Monotonic shouldn’t wiggle.
Infill types are a whole subject themselves.
There are a couple really good posts here about printing transparent things.
Bambu studio defaults to rectilinear for 100%, that’s the only option.
From what I read, 100% infill should be solid.
Yet, the bottom clearly has this parallel lines pattern that I can also see in the slicer.
(The part above it is calibration related I assume, even though I did a flow calibration on this filament).
Thanks for sharing! I figured out the “wiggling” - I forgot to adjust the infill direction.
I wasn’t aware of rectilinear only at 100%, but did you try 99% or lower? The Studio slicer can give you a good indication of what you’ll get. A percent or two won’t really be noticeable but you also can up flow rate if not getting close to a full 100% fill.
I’m surprised nobody suggested it but here goes. Whenever I want 100% solid infill, I simply increase the wall thickness to the max which is 999. What this does is eliminate infill altogether and makes for a rock solid print. Alternatively, one can also set walls to 0 and set the upper and lower layers to 999. That too will create a rock solid 100% filament in the other vector. When I print PC or PETG and want a injection mold-like strength, that’s the trick I use. Try it out and see if it works in your application. You may have to back off 5c on the nozzle temp to reduce curling since the mass increases dramatically and therefore so does the temp delta upon cooling.
As you are concerned about translucent filaments and how the infill works, you may be interested in the work on a calibration model with both PLA & PETG.
It is a calibration model, a starting point, and a good starting point.
You can see the results of the print profile I ended up with. I aimed not to sacrifice speed. You can see what I did to get here and determine if anything helps you get to where you wish to be.
@Olias, actually, not so, according to my most recent experiment.
I had the same thought, and put the walls to 15, and 100% infill (15 walls would have covered the full wall of my object). And it turns out, I had some wiggle action happening between my walls, indicating infill rather than a straight wall line.
Then I reduced the wall number to 4 (also enough to cover my entire object’s wall) and this resulted in only straight lines.
Your theory might work for solid larger objects; I just wanted solid walls.
To ensure that we are talking about the same thing, here is an example of what as segment using 999 walls looks like. In this case I also changed the infill pattern - which will never show up while using infinite wall - so that one doesn’t confuse infill with walls. As you can see, these are solid lines. This particular model was a desk clamp I made that had to stand up to the same rigors a metal clamp would have. When made from either PETG or PC, it was nearly as strong as steel. You can see there are zero gaps.
If you’re using 999 walls and not getting these results then there is some other setting that is interfering.
You might be right, because I cannot recreate the situation.
Maybe something was interfering in Bambu Studio (which does happen, eg. also today, I had to change the settings multiple times to make it slice with the top surface pattern I selected).
This seems to be a cool trick. Thanks for sharing. I will try it out the next time. So far I have been setting the infill to 100% whenever I need a solid part. Btw are you aware of any difference between both these methods? Thank you.
