I can try laying it flat. I just looked it up and found that vertical was shown to be the best way to print them as fhe Z axis has better detail than the X or Y planes. I do not know why or how but just what I read.
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Thanks for that feedback. I expect that with a 0.08mm layer height (or even lower: My X1 can do 0.04mm quite easily but below that, it’d take better flow control) that would get better resolution in a single direction at the cost of brightness resolution.
With your main aim atm being getting a successful print, I’d indeed recommend laying it flat on a smooth plate and using the Arachne wall generator and maybe adding mouse ears against possible warping.
If the resolution is not good enough for your needs, give the .2mm nozzles a go. You should be good for sharp detail down to 0.12mm in that way.
@3D_Prints please find attached the details of the mono_lithophane I printed with perfect results on my H2D. there are three plates to be printed in my case. the settings I am listing below are those which where highlighted as changed or locked. when I remember correctly I didn’t change anything. the first screenshot shows the orientation of the parts. cheers
process: global
0.2 Standard Profile
Others > Brim type > outer brim only
process: objects > assemble_1
Frequent > Layer height > 0.12
Frequent > Sparse infill density > 100
Quality > Layer height > 0.12
Quality > Seam position > back
Strength > Sparse infill density > 100
Strength > Sparse infill pattern > rectlinear
Others > Brim type > no brim
Do you have it printing vertically as well? Whenever I’ve done one it’s defaulted to print flat.
This is the orientation I kept for printing. No issues at all.
I didnt read through all the stuff above, but Lithophanes get most detail in a vertical stance laying flat loses much detail …also THERE SHOULD BE ZERO INFILL IN LITHOPHANES. On bedslingers orient them front ot back on the Y axis to avoid wobble.
The proper way to do them is 999 walls as it lets the hotend move in one fluid motion and gives less risk of blobs or blemishes than using infill (even at 100% its not as effective as ALL WALLS) when you use infill the hotend has to break its fluid motion to cross over instead of just continuing its natural path IT MAKES ZERO SENSE TO USE INFILL AS LITHOPHANES ARE DESIGNED TO LOOK THROUGH, MEANING ANY FLAWS OR BLEMISHES MAY SHOW THROUGH SO WHY RISK IT?
MANY HARD HEADED PEOPLE OUT THERE CLAIM THE 100% INFILL IS THE SAME BUT ITS NOT, AND AGAIN WHY RISK RUINING A LONG PRINT.
The only reason to print flat is if you are using multicolor as there is no other way currently to do them.
I print litho lampshades all the time and would never risk ruining a 14 hour print because of an infill blemish
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Yeah I agree, I have printed them vertically on my P1S let me try this out on my next one. Thanks.